Retinol (Vitamin A) works on so many skin types in so many ways, but what I wanted to do today was talk about it in relation to acne.
How Retinol works.
Retinol is the only ingredient proven without a doubt to improve the cellular function of the skin.
Retinol stimulates and regulates certain functions in the skin. It works at a cellular level-meaning it penetrates deep to work on all layers of the skin. It works on the sebocyte (oil) cells as mentioned below, it also works by stimulating the mitochondria- which is the energy powerhouse in your skin cell increasing overall cell health and function. Your skin cells have Vitamin A antennas on them allowing them to feed on the vitamin A and then repair any deficiencies with it.
As mentioned above you skin cells have little antennas on them to allow them to feed on Vitamin A in your skin. Your sebocyte (oil) cells have them as well. Your sebocyte cells go through mitosis (which is cell death to allow new cells to be produced.) When these cells are healthy they breakdown as they are meant to and leave very little behind, but if they are unhealthy they leave a lot of debris behind, this adds to built up debris in your pores leading to congestion and acne. This is why it is important to use Vitamin A (and B) serum as it feeds the cell making it healthier and break down in a healthy way.
By making the sebocyte cell healthier we reduce the size of the sebaceous gland reducing oil production.
Vitamin A prevents the rise of an enzyme called collagenase it’s an enzyme that breaks down collagen and helps to stimulate the production of new collagen.
The quicker your skin heals the less scaring you are left with. The main component of the wound healing process is collagen. With the right amount of collagen production in your skin, your wound will heal faster allowing the skin cells to continue with the healing process underneath.
The skin naturally sheds dead skin cells every 28-40 days on average, this slows down as we age and why your skin never seems as bright and glowing as it did when you were younger.
When skin is healthy as new skin cells are born the older skin cells are pushed up through the layers of the skin until it reaches the top layer the known as the stratum corneum. By the time the cell reaches this layer, it can be rough, dry and flaky. This is what we consider as a dead skin cell. New skin cells continue to arrive at the skin’s surface, pushing older cells off from beneath.
Cell turnover though isn’t as efficient in people with acne. In those with acne, the natural process is interrupted. Acne-prone skin produces more dead skin cells than other skins and these cells don’t properly shed. This condition is called retention hyperkeratosis.
In normal functioning skin, excess dead skin cells are constantly being sloughed away naturally. In acne-prone skin, dead cells remain stuck on the skin’s surface and within the follicle, creating clogged pores. This is why speeding up the cell process by increasing cell turnover is important. You can do this by exfoliating on the surface which is important, but you can over exfoliate, which is why using Vitamin A by increasing the new cell production from within reduces irritation and dryness on the top layer.
Keep an eye out for our post on our new Vitamin A products in store from this week.
By Jason Rollard
Why have a men’s facial?
When I was a kid a facial was something ladies went and did while their men played golf.
But a facial could be the secret weapon that gets you ahead in the skincare game and Shine skin and body do a facial custom made for men.
We all want to look younger longer, we all want our skin to look healthy and clean. Men are no different and there are a lot of skincare solutions now aimed at men.You can see adds on TV or online.
The benefit of having a facial before going out and spending hundreds of dollars on skincare would be that a trained professional will look at your skin history through a consultation form and analyse your skin with a megi lamp and recommend the right way forward for taking care of one of your best assets, kinda like a personal trainer for your face.
The Shine skin and body Male facial is the perfect introduction to tailored skincare for men. It’s a facial designed to suit your skin and male skincare needs.
So why have a men’s facial instead of just a regular facial?
There is nothing wrong with having a standard extraction facial or chemical peel, but a facial that is specialized for men’s skin to start with will be a major benefit. Men have thicker skin than women, they have testosterone, they shave and they grow beards. Men generally don’t wear makeup and diet, Sport and sun affect men’s skin differently.
So a facial designed to cater to men’s needs only makes sense.
What happens in a Shine skin and body Male facial?
Before you have a facial it’s a good idea to prepare a little. Have a shave the day before, your therapist will thank you. You can have a facial if you have a beard they will focus on your T-zone, cheeks and forehead.
On your first visit they will have you fill out a consultation form. It’s a good idea to come in a little before your scheduled appointment so you can fill the form in and not cut into you allotted facial time. It will have questions about your medical history what skincare products do you use at home and what concerns you most about your skin.
The therapist that will do your treatment will sit down with you and quickly go through your form asking any questions if she needs more information. Some skin care products have ingredients that cause more harm than good, some medications need special consideration. All this information helps your therapist cater the treatment for you.
The rooms are best described as cosy they are not a sterile medical environment like some skin care clinics and they are not excessively girly, there is no pink paint or frilly material like the Barbie fun house type beauty salons. The rooms feel more like someone’s home, arm chair in the corner, candles, cool music, a bit of Nirvana unplugged a bit of Beatles and a split system controlling the room temperature, very relaxing.
Once you are tucked in it all starts with a skin analysis. This is where your therapist will assess your skin with the aid of a magi lamp, a device that is part lighthouse and part giant magnifying glass. Then checking your T-zone for oiliness and large pores, dryness of the forehead, acne in the cheek area could be a result of diet or food allergies, pigmentation from sun damage, fine lines around the eyes or forehead. This information allows your therapist to target problem areas and cater the facial to your unique needs. For men the skin analysis is done before cleansing there is no make up to remove and this allows the therapist a chance to see the oily areas of the face
Then your therapist will apply Sothys Homme cleanser. It is a great 3 in 1 product. Containing volcanic clay to cleanse and energise the skin, lava grains to exfoliate and smooth and also a mask to revitalize and purify. The smell is perfect for guys and your skin feels so fresh afterwards. Whilst this is on the relaxation starts with a scalp massage.
After 7mins it is removed with a warm towel compress
Desquacrem is a unique product to sothys that penetrates into your pores and cleans them where the oil is. It works like a scrubbing brush giving you a deep cleanse. The steamer is used at the same time to help open the pores allowing the desqucrem to penetrate deeper
Now you are clean!
At this point of the facial we come to folk in the road. This is where the facial is customized to suit differing skin types oily, dry, aged and combination.
If your skin is oily or has acne and blackheads they will do extractions-clearing out all the congestion from your pores. If your acne is inflamed then they finish off with high frequency, it kills bacteria and reduces your chances of break outs after your facial.
If your skin is on the dry side the plan of attack is hydration. Expect a moisturising massage cream and a creamy re hydrating mask.
If age is your concern they apply serums, masks and creams that tackle fine lines and encourage collagen production.
For combination skin they do a blend of extractions, a hydrating mask and anti-ageing serums depending on what is called for and where.
Finishing off with another warm towel, moisturiser and of course sunscreen. Your therapist will talk to about any recommended skincare product when you come to reception so you can keep your skin in top condition long after your facial.
You should have a facial about everyday four weeks, so proper skin care will help you maintain healthy skin inbetween.
When all is said and done the male facial from shine skin and body really is a facial that is designed not only for men but the right facial for an individual.
Jason Rollard owner of Shine skin and body 323 Swan street Richmond, Melbourne Australia.
Sheridan Rollard Shine skin and body Richmond
It’s not just our wardrobes that need an overhaul for the seasonal change – we also need to make sure our skincare regime will protect us for winter!
In Melbourne, wet days, cold temperatures and fierce winds force us to turn up our heaters, take long baths or hot showers – which ALL cause the water in our skin to evaporate very quickly, leaving the skin tight, dry/flaky. Even an oily skin type can be affected by loss of water and can actually cause more oil on the skin.
Dehydrated skin lacks water and therefore needs to be hydrated. It’s that tightness you feel without product on the skin. When you feel like your skin needs a big drink of water. In an attempt to beat the shine, many people will dehydrate their skin with harsh cleansers & avoid moisturising – which can lead to irritation/impaired barrier.
Dry skin lacks oil and needs to be nourished. Dry skin will normally flake or have a rough texture. It’s a skin condition that needs management, otherwise it can cause premature ageing!
Usually the words ‘good’ and ‘fat’ don’t belong is the same sentence, however, OMEGAS are fatty acids which nourish the skin with healthy fats and are essential for a healthy skin.
We can find Omega 3 in foods such as salmon, mackerel, sardines, anchovies, herrings, tuna, nuts, seeds, oils such as rapeseed, canola and flaxseed and dark green leafy vegetables, as well as other foods such as soybeans and tofu.
Omega 6 stimulates collagen production and act as an anti-inflammatory. Omega 6 can over time assist in calming inflammation associated with conditions such as rosacea and psoriasis (which can be impossible to manage, particularly in winter).
Omega 7 – Sea Buckthorn contains the highest concentration of this valuable fatty acid, up to 40%. It’s a rich source of vitamins, like C & E as well as minerals & amino acids.
Benefits of Sea buckthorn;
Squalene is a powerful anti-oxidant which is found naturally in our skin- it makes up 10-16% of our sebaceous oils. It usually peaks in our teens, but like our omegas, they diminish as time goes on. The ingredient you normally see listed on products is ‘squalane’, which is basically a hydrogenated version of our naturally occurring squalene, just more stable for topically applied products.
So we mentioned that hyaluronic acid is like giving your skin a big drink of water, well, squalane is your big fluffy coat that keeps the warmth in (holds moisture in the skin).
Besides being a natural anti oxidant and skin protectant, it’s also antibacterial and helps protect skin from UV damage.
Pro tip: Add a night serum and cream if you aren’t already using them, as your skin regenerates more at night therefore you get optimum from your products!
The obvious way to help with hydration is to drink your two litres of water per day; though if its just not cutting it here are some ingredients to include in your skin care:
Lots of our clients come in with Hyaluronic Acid in their regime already, but they have no idea what it is or why they are using it. It’s become an ingredient of trend, however, its ability and function in our skin is totally understated. A lot of you will have heard or read that Hyaluronic Acid acts like a sponge, attracting and holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water – which is so impressive…but let’s have look at how Hyaluronic Acid works in our skin.
When looking for Hyaluronic Acid in a product, you should note its molecular weight. Ideally a mixture of high & low is best. A low weight molecule is able to penetrate deeper to hydrate those low levels of our skin, which are essential for collagen reproduction, whereas the high weight is a larger molecule which will work on the surface of our skin therefore results of plumping and glow are immediate! It creates an amazing barrier, protecting the skin from harsh winter elements.
Fun fact: On dry skin, Hyaluronic Acid will actually pull the moisture out of the air to use in your skin.
Niacinimide/Vitamin B3. This ingredient is fantastic for balancing out the skin and helping re-build the barrier of a dehydrated skin. Read more about this magical ingredient in our Vitamin B blog…….
And don’t forget facials. We have a range of facials with rubberised masks designed to allow all the serums, massage balms and masks to penetrate into the skin giving you a wonderful plumpness and softness.
HYDRA 3 for dehydrated skins needed plumping. RE-ENERGISE with all your Omega’s to nourish your skin. SOS for sensitive skin to calm and hydrate. book online here
(4) Clinical implications of lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris: old wine in ne w bottles https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3012032/
Vitamin B is not an occurring vitamin in our bodies and cannot be stored. With all our vitamin B needing to be consumed through our diet or applied topically, vitamin B deficiency is a common cause of many skin conditions.
It is perfect for
-Red or irritated skin- great for rosacea sufferers
-Dull, yellow, sallow
-Dry and flaky.
There are eight forms of vitamin B that often create a vitamin B complex. The many forms of vitamin B and the vast benefits of each, makes a Vitamin B complex perfect for almost all skin types and conditions. The main reason for recommending vitamin B is normally for repairing and strengthening the skin.
B1(Thiamine) is a powerful antioxidant. This means it helps protect the skin from external influences that may damage it.
B2 and B6 aids in regulating the skins sebum production, making it suitable for those clients with an oil flow, who may be worried about congesting their skin. It also facilitates normal healthy skin cells.
Vitamin B3 (niacin) strengthens the skins barrier function and increases production of one of the most important lipids (ceramides) this helps preventing trans epidermal water loss therefore strengthening the skin. It enables the skin to lock in moisture and simultaneously keeps out irritants. Vitamin B3 is responsible for stimulating the skins energy source, increasing cell growth and repairing damaged cells.
B5(Panthenol)Soothes and hydrates.
Vitamin B9 (Folic acid) helps to detox the skin, helping to reduce the occurrence of breakouts. Vitamin B9 is also essential for healthy cell production and tissue growth, helping to ensure the skin has optimum cell turnover.
Vitamin B12 helps to regulate the production of pigment in the skin, helping to prevent dark spots and pigmentation. Vitamin B12 also promotes the growth of healthy skin cells and helps to repair damaged skin.
The ultimate reasons for Vitamin B is to balance oil and hydration, repair the barrier and brighten the skin.
If you are interested in more information come and chat to one of our girls as to what is the right vitamin for you.
Who is it for?
DULL SKIN- As it is an extremely powerful antioxidant, it can benefit anybody in terms of overall skin health. Applying vitamin C on a daily basis will ensure skin health remains at its optimum. This in turn will ensure your skin will have all the vitamins it needs giving you an amazing glow.
AGEING-Increases production of collagen, hydration and skin health.
PIGMINTATION/SCARRING- Vitamin C helps break down the pigment color in the skin helping fade the dark marks from scarring or pigmentation. This is a slower, but more nourishing way to help fade marks or even skin tone, without the harshness of acids.
IMPAIRED/SENSITIVE- Helps repair a irriatated skin by repairing the barrier. If skin is irritated-remaining constantly on guard for aggressors- this causes stress in the skin, Stress depletes Vitamin C levels, as Vitamin C is used up rapidly by the adrenal glands that supply the stress hormones. The increase in collagen can help improve the ruddy-red appearance of the skin.
It is a well-known fact that smoking reduces vitamin C levels in smokers but evidence also shows that non- smokers who live with smokers, also suffer reduced Vitamin C levels.
We have 3 main vitamin C products here at Shine.
Extreme C: Most appropriate for a wider range of skin types. Most people are able to be put on this type of vitamin C as it is very gentle on the skin, and causes little to no irritation. This is because it contains a form of Vitamin C which is oil soluble and is pH neutral, causing less irritation. This vitamin C focuses on strengthening and repairing the skin whilst keeping it soothed.
Pure C: just contains 100% pure L-Ascorbic acid crystals. This is a really high dose of vitamin C, so perfect for someone concerned about brightening their skin, helping to break down pigmented skin or smokers. Since this form of Vitamin C has such high anti-oxidants, it has the ability to shield the skin against further sun damage, causing less pigment. L-Ascorbic acid also is able to slow down the production of melanin by itself. This product would not be suitable for someone looking to strengthen or repair their skin as it would be too stimulating, due to the acids in the product. Pure C mixes great with many other products to give even greater results.
Triple C: This is a blend of 3 different types of stabilised Vitamin C. This form of vitamin C also contains peptides. So in terms of anti-ageing- if not enough collagen or elastin was being produced by the cell, the peptide would correct it, encouraging more production. It also assists the new collagen production and maintains the health. This vitamin C has such a high level of antioxidants due to the amount of different forms of C in it, so this would be perfect for someone exposed to high levels of free-radical damage throughout their day.
Why a cosmeceutical product
Vitamin C is a tricky ingredient. It is a very unstable vitamin, which means the slightest reactions to heat, light or oxygen can deactivate all of its benefits. This is why it is important to look at the type of packaging Vitamin C comes in prior to purchasing. A good Vitamin C to look for should be double insulated to provide protection from the sun, and should be air tight so no oxygen can enter though the package. This will ensure longer usage of your product and full results.
Also Vitamin C is not recognised by the skin, because of this it’s delivery system needs to be advanced to penetrate into the skin so it can work. There are different forms of Vitamin C that attaches to sodium or magnesium (which is recognised by the skin) so that it can enter the skin through channels. Once delivered into the skin, the magnesium or sodium dissolve, releasing the vitamin C deeper into the skin, with less irritation.
Since vitamin C is not recognised, Vitamin E is a great carrier for C as when the 2 are bonded, C is able to enter with it. Vitamin E can be a great carrier as it also assist the benefits of C, as it too helps fight off free radicals, as it is another form of an antioxidant.It also makes it difficult for oxygen and other relative substances to attack the weak point of Vit C.
Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis – where collagen, elastin and blood vessels live – to reduce wrinkles and increase blood flow to the surface of your skin. It increases the flow of collagen to slow down the ageing process of your skin.
Vitamin A can help to reduce the activity of sebaceous glands – when it comes into contact with oil cells it gets to work to clean up the oil slick by dramatically decreasing sebum production. In some cases, treatment with vitamin A can decrease the production of sebum by up to 90%.
For skin health
Vitamin A is both an antioxidant and a cell communicator – triggering cells to produce everything they need to keep your skin in tip-top shape. It increases cell turnover and exfoliates the skin from within to repair DNA, reprogram cellular function and recharge damaged cells to function normally again.
Cosmeceutical skin care products deliver active ingredients deep into the dermis (your skin’s layers) where the real work needs to be done. Active ingredients include retinaldehyde-liposome and AGP (arabino-galactan-protein), a molecular transport antioxidant.
Other types of skin care products rarely have the ability to go as deep as a cosmeceutical without causing irritation. Cosmeceutical skin care delivers active ingredients including Vitamin A through your skin’s structures to the receptor on the cell. This delivery system is both gentle and effective to prevent dehydration, redness and irritation.
To achieve the full benefit of products containing vitamin A, cleanse your skin before applying your serums to allow maximum penetration, and leave them on overnight to let them work their magic.
NOTE: Like many vitamins, Vitamin A is not stable and can lose its potency when exposed to sunlight, therefore we recommend using your serums at night when you skin is in a state of repair and there is no risk of exposure to UV light. Also look for packaging that protects the stability of the ingredients with minimal exposure to air and light.
We have four fantastic Vitamin A facials available at Shine – each tailored to address specific skin needs:
Retinol Brûlée –combines AHA, vitamin A and vitamin B to brighten your complexion and smooth away fine lines. Great for more sensitive skin.
Benefit Peel –offers the wow factor of vitamins A and C combined to nourish and plump your skin with vital nutrients and antioxidants.
Purity Peel –combines acne fighting powerhouse ingredients AHA, BHA, vitamin A and zinc to decongest pores for a clearer, healthier complexion.
Timeless –our top shelf vitamin A peel offers significant cell turnover resulting in smoother, denser and hydrated skin. The combination of AHAs, vitamin A and antioxidants firms up your complexion and gets it glowing.
Vitamin A – home care
Come in and chat to us about the right Vitamin A serum for your skin – we have five fantastic options each formulated to address different skin concerns along with delivering a good dose of ‘super’ Vitamin A into your skin.
Check out our new Vitamin A promotion on our specials page at shineskinandbody.com.au or see below – available until August 2017.
I am excited to announce that we have introduced an innovative new treatment at Shine called Dermal needling, which, I know, might sound a little scary, but I promise you, it will revolutionise your skin!
So let me explain.
But first, let me tell you about our philosophy and where Shine fits into the beauty industry.
At Shine, we believe in positivity and results, and we have invested the time to research the best treatments and innovations to help you achieve optimum skin health.
But sometimes the best techniques take time in order to achieve long-term lasting results.
For example, we don’t offer laser treatment because we believe that, while it may give you fast results, it places way too much stress on your skin in the long term and the damage can be hard to repair. And we don’t offer chemical peels because they strip back the top layer of skin exposing it to external bacteria and infections, leaving it inflamed and so sensitive to sunlight that some people have to stay indoors for 5-7 days after a treatment. Doesn’t sound pleasant, does it?
At Shine, we believe there has to be a gentler, better way that can be sustained for the long-term health of your skin (i.e. why do a two day juice detox to lose 5kg, when eating a balanced diet is safer and will give you lasting results?).
Two years ago, we introduced LED light therapy to offer our clients who suffer with acne a gentle yet result-driven treatment that really works. Your skin has the ability to absorb light and convert it into energy, depending on the colour of the light used. Blue light works to kill surface bacteria; red light goes a little deeper to flush out the lymphatic system and remove blockages or waste that cause acne to build up; and infra-red light targets the inner layers to speed up the healing process. There is no downtime, no dryness or inflammation, no peeling, and you can walk straight out of salon. Yes, you do need a series of treatments to see long-term results (although you will see a difference after the first treatment) but it is painless and gentle on your skin.
So then we came to the next step. We were getting great results and clearing people’s acne. What about reducing scarring and achieving optimal results from your skincare?
This year we have introduced dermal needling. Basically, it is a pen with six tiny needles on the end that penetrate into the top layers of the skin to create micro-channels that allow your wonderful serums to get to where they are needed most instead of fighting through a tough outer barrier. It also works to loosen fibrous tissue and soften the appearance scarring and indented scars (imagine you have a rope from your scar holding the top layer down to your dermis – the lowest layers of your skin – creating a dent. The deeper the dent, the bigger the rope and the stronger the hold). Dermal needling starts to fray and break that rope so its hold isn’t so firm, and the more sessions you have the flatter the scar becomes. With dermal needling you may see about a 70% reduction in scarring after 6-9 treatments. We use a gentle numbing cream to ensure the whole experience is painless, and there is minimal downtime. Your skin may look and feel a little red the evening after the treatment (like sunburn), and you may experience some light dryness and flakiness 3-5 days afterwards so we encourage you to come back for a mini facial to check the results and help calm any ongoing inflammation.
So we are about great results, great skin, gentle treatments and minimal downtime in beautiful surrounds with some pretty cool music and, most importantly, very knowledgeable therapists who you can trust and whose main aim is to help you reach long-term complexion perfection.
Come into Shine and have a chat to us about dermal needling or any of our other treatments, or visit www.shineskinandbody.com.au
One of the most common skin conditions we see at Shine is acne. But one of the biggest issues we see in new clients is that they have tried to combat their acne issues by stripping their skin of good oils with the wrong skincare, making it even oilier but also with dry, scaly patches – so in general their skin presents as red, inflamed and aggravated. In about 90% of cases oily skin is not to blame for the breakouts – it is usually hormones, stress, diet or digestion.
I know, I know…. You are saying, “But MY skin is oily!”
Let me explain…
Oil is not your enemy. Too much oil is. But we all need good oils in our skin to keep it hydrated, nourished, balanced, working correctly and to have a healthy glowing complexion. Oil for your skin is like oil with food. There is good oil and bad oil. You need good oils (like the oils found in fish, nuts and avocado) to ensure everything in your body is lubricated and working well to absorb nutrients and maintain good health. What you don’t need is an excess of bad oils (think trans fats in fast food and greasy takeaway). This can spell bad news for your heart, your other essential organs, and even your skin, leaving you feeling sluggish and unhealthy.
When you use skincare products targeted for oily complexions and acne-prone skin you are probably stripping out all the essential oils as well as the bad ones because many skincare brands which are developed for super-oily skin are actually created to strip out as much oil as possible, no matter if it is good or bad. So you end up with dehydrated, stressed out skin that is actually screaming out for some good oil. And plenty of hydration. The result? Your body responds to this distress signal and goes into overdrive producing extra oils so you end up with a major grease problem and major inflammation and dehydration because your skin is in shock. What does that look like? Break-outs and red, dry patches of skin – so both oily and dry at the same time!
Is this starting to sound like your skin now? A little of everything?
The first step is to balance out your skin using the right combination skincare products – or for some people, specific hydrating products – to calm down your stressed out complexion and slow down the excess oil production.
At Shine, when you book in for a skin consultation we will do a thorough skin analysis before discussing with you the best treatment for your skin type. We encourage you to also bring in any skincare you are currently using so we can understand what you are using and why, and work with you discover what is the best way forward for your skin. We try and work as much as we can with what you already have – because, after all, you have spent good money on it! – but at the same time our job is to make sure you are doing the best for your skin with the right products so we may recommend some changes.
I hope that resolves a few of the myths out there about oily skin and I welcome you to give me a call to discuss your oily skin issues – or pop into Shine for a chat or to book a facial so we can start getting your skin back on track to optimum health.
Want to get more out of your homecare routine? Want to take your skin to another level? Home rolling may be the answer to your needs.
Dermaroller is a hand-held roller studded with very fine needles. When rolled across the skin it creates micro channels to help drive active ingredients deeper into the top layers. The roller penetrates through the harder outer skin layer into the epidermis creating a channel for your wonderful serums to slide straight down right into the middle of the epidermis where the rest of your skin is buzzing around working hard to produce collagen, elastin, building strength, and communicating. This means that you will get 80-100% effectiveness from your serums instead of the 1-30% you are currently getting.
Our skin is not only the biggest organ, but it also protects the body against external influences such as temperatures, bacteria, excessive water loss, makeup, dust etc. The normal average human skin has a thickness of 1.5 mm and is categorised in three major zones: Epidermis (0.12 mm), dermis and sub-dermis (1.5 mm).
The Epidermis has five layers in total; the top layer is called the Stratum Corneum. Its thickness is about a hundredth of a millimeter, and it is hard to believe that this thin layer is the main barrier and protection for our body. The Stratum Corneum is constantly replaced by the lower epidermal layers.
Your skin is designed to protect you from outside influences, hence your products need to penetrate through that hard outer layer (the stratum corneum) to get to all the cells beneath where all the real work is being done. This can be hard even for good products, so home rolling at a depth of 0.2 allows little micro channels to open up to allow all your great products to get to where you need them.
So what percentage of your skincare regimen actually penetrates into viable layers where the active ingredient can stimulate the skin?
Depending on the ‘delivery system’ used in the formulation, the penetration can vary from each skincare brand to the next. Generic, no name brands probably have less than 1% penetration – clinical cosmeceutical brands probably have closer to 30%… but there is still a 70-99% waste with each application.
Shine now stocks Dermaroller – a 0.2 home rolling device which can be used twice a week at the beginning, building up to 5-7 days a week. Ongoing use will make sure your skincare is working at its optimum level to create healthier, plump, balanced, radiant and well-hydrated skin plus improve your skin tone depending on which serums you use.
According to clinical dermatologists, retinol (or vitamin A) is one of the few ingredients with a demonstrated
ability to reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It is able to alter the behavior of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner.
Retinol absorbs quickly into the skin from surface application. It has a molecular structure that’s tiny enough to get into the lower layers of skin, where it finds collagen and elastin. Retinol is proven to improve fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and color, and your skin’s hydration levels.
At Shine we have retinol in our Retinol Brulee serum $115. This lasts for about 6mths, 1 pump a night under your moisturiser. With all Retinols you need to ease you way onto it as it is quite active. We recommend once every 3 nights for 1-2 weeks then every night. For a more sensitive skin it would be less.
We also offer retinol peels for people wanting more results. They are much more intensive and offer quicker and better results. You have 6 peels in total for best results-1 every 3-4 weeks and need to be on retinol brulee for 2 weeks prior. You would not believe your skin at the end of the series.
Exfoliation is the best product to change your skin around. It will give you skin glow, giving you a radiant, healthy skin.
Oily-it helps balance the oil flow,
Dry- takes off the rough outer layer making it softer and allowing moisturisers to penetrate,
Acne-allow the skin to breathe. Some can be anti-bacterial.
Exfoliaiton is a step missing in a lot of peoples skin care routine. You can’t be bothered, forget or don’t have the time.
With so many different types of exfoliants out there at the moment, it is now easier than ever… You just need to pick the right one for you.
(for a balanced normal skin type) Also referred to as microexfoliants. They are very light and suited to quite a balanced skin that needs only a boost. They are more of a top layer polish than through exfoliation. If you have concerns or problems with your skin then these are not for you. Ask about douceur scrub
(for all skin types except sensitive) Never go rough. It shouldn’t hurt or turn you red. Scrubs are great for people short on time and want something quick to do in the shower. Ask about Cellabation
(all skins but great for congestion and acne) The most through of all exfoliants. Disolves the build up of skin and loosens the top layers of skin. They are antibacterial so great for acne. Sometimes come in a gel that you just put on at night under your moisturiser- can’t get easier (just not for sensitive skin) Ask about Exfol 15
(any skin type, great for sensitive, but not acne) hese are creams of gels that you apply allow to dry and then rub off. Great for sensitive or broken capalliary skin. Very gentle, but not great if you are losing tone in your skin as it can be hard to get off and feel like you are dragging your skin too much. Not great for acne because if you rub over pimple you can take the top off and spread bacteria. Ask about Fruit Enzyme Peel.
So if you haven’t already add an exfoliant to your routine to get a radiant glowing skin.
From your 60’s on is a great time for your skin because your hormones have finished fluctuating and your skin is becoming more stable. Loss of tone is the main problem– it comes with the territory, but a combination of good skincare and regular facials can help it still look beautiful, radiant and youthful.
Most skin-rejuvenation strategies will work, but only at a slower pace and to a lesser degree. It doesn’t mean don’t do them, it is never too late to slow down the ageing process.
In our sixties we have loose, sagging skin somewhere. Skin cells have 30 per cent less natural moisture now than when you were younger, so skin’s noticeably drier, thinner, tighter and flakier.
Inconsistent sun protection means age spots are showing up. AHA’s and Vitamin C that you may have started earlier are still the way to go, if you haven’t started them already-get on board.
Treat your skin gently. Our skin becomes more fragile as we age, and it is more easily damaged. If you haven’t had a good skincare regime up till now, start off gently and introduce new products or treatments slowly. If you have been looking after you skin- keep up the good work and even change some things around a bit more.
Homecare- gentle is the word- a gentle milk cleanser, a light scrub or preferably one that contains aha’s, a tinted sunscreen in your moisturiser for day and a intensily hydrating moisturiser at night. In most case the thicker the better.
Treatments- if starting out just do a standard facial, let your therapist get used to your skin then you can go harder.
But hydration and toning are your key focus now.
In your fifties, the skin changes you noticed in your forties becomes more noticeable.
This is for a number of reasons: slower cell turnover, loss of skin elasticity, lack of collagen production, sun damage, or even a drop in estrogen which decreases oil production.
•Menopause can cause a multitude of skin problems. The drop on estrogen can extreme dryness, acne, and rosacea.
•Combating acne. A decline in estrogen during menopause can dramatically affect the skin. As testosterone increases and cell renewal slows down, acne can resurface. Avoid stripping your skin as you may have done in your teens, your skin is more fragile and dryer now, it will only cause more problems. Use a spot treatment to avoid damaging other parts of your skin.
•Pigmentation- It’s never too late to prevent sun damage and to stop the progression of damage you may already have. AHA’s and Vitamin C are the 2 ingredients you need to look for. Preferably in a serum and night cream for them to be more active.
•Don’t Forget Your Neck and décolleté Your skin isn’t the only thing that gives your age away. As there are fewer sebaceous glands to lubricate the skin on the neck, it is dryer quicker this leads to accelerated ageing which in turn leads to the onset of sagging skin and deep wrinkles. The best way to treat this area is with a neck serum- formulated to help more with loss of tone. Everyday all your products should come down onto your neck. But always rub on upwards.
•Hands- always forgotten, but gives away a woman’s age. With whatever is left over after apply serums and creams to face wipe on the back of your hands.
Regular exfoliating- Is the best way to keep skin looking young. As we age our cell turnover slows for 28 days to as much as 40 days. This leaves the skin looking dull and dry. Exfoliation will speed up this process giving a wonderful glow to your skin.
Serums- To stimulate collagen(responsible for wrinkles and tone) try products with vitamin C (look for L-ascorbic acid on the label) and retinol. Serums are the most powerful of all your products, and by your 50’s you should most defiantly be on one or both. If not start now.
Moisturise- This is the most important step. It will plump up fine lines giving your skin a softness. Look for anti-oxidant, anti-ageing products. Every little bit helps.
Sunscreen– At the top of any skincare regimen. Sun damage can break down collagen which causes premature aging signs like fine lines and wrinkles.
Make-up- Avoid powders and heavy eye makeup. It will settle into wrinkles and take on a mask-like appearance, making you look older. Instead, try a tinted moisturiser that will intensely hydrate the area whilst offering a radiant boost of colour. Diffusive rather than masking pigments will make skin look more radiant, Choose soft hues for the eyes like grey or brown liner.
Facials- Peels are fantastic. If you are concerned about pigmentation or dullness then a course of AHA peels would be best, if it is ageing- then retinol peels you can’t go past.
Visit our anti-ageing facial page for more details
During our 40s, the body is undergoing a lot changes, and the skin is no exception. Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall the skin can go all over the place-dryness, sunspots, dull even acne.
DRY SKIN-many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, can can be easily fixed, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes, forehead and mouth. A good moisturiser for a drier skin type works well at plumping fine lines as well as hydrating the skin. You could try Payot’s Nutricia Crème. It’s main ingredient in Honey which helps put a watertight layer on the skin allowing moisturise to stay.
DULL SKIN: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lack-luster complexion. Using AHA’s can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. This can be done in cleansers, lotions or serums. They will gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin. Aspect as a cosmecutical range has Exfol 15, which is a serum applied nightly to help exfoliate the skin, also for those time poor the Purastat cleanser makes using AHA’s easy. A course of AHA peels will speed up the process and get you going to healthy skin a lot quicker.
ADULT ACNE: “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is normally due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid such as PCA’s Spot Treat can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. Again AHA peels are a great facial treatment will give you results. Exfoliation is also really important.
WRINKLES: These started in your 30’s, but now they get deeper. Genetics, sun damage, and skin-care routines all contribute to how fast or slow the skin ages. If you haven’t started on anti-ageing products already, by your 40’s you should well and truly be on them. It’s not too late, we will age more and more, so get in now before your lines get deeper. Retinol should be your No 1 ingredient. Aspect has Retinol Brulee. Retinol is the only ingredient that can turn back some signs of ageing. Boost its benefits by adding in an AHA twice a week. Because they stimulate cell renewal in different ways, you’ll get maximum improvement using both.
SKINCARE: So step up your efforts with stronger, multitasking treatments that combine several proven ingredients. Retinol, AHA’s and Vitamin C are all great products. You need active products to give you the best results possible. And don’t forget your sunscreen- you should be on it by now every day! 🙂
IN SALON Treatments at Shine Skin and Body.
A Course of AHA peels are the answer! Effective and gentle with no downtime or redness, rejuvenate dull, sluggish skin with a course of AHA peels. Get your skin glowing, improve skin cell turnover, decongest blocked pores, blackheads and acne, and smooth away the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The ultimate winter skin treat!
On special at the moment at these prices
Try one now for $60
3x 30min peels $190
6 x 30min peels $350
3 x 75min peels $265
Retinol Peels – Turn back time with the natural power of retinol – the only ingredient known to penetrate the deeper layers of your skin to reduce the signs of ageing, stimulate collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production, and leave your complexion plumped, refreshed and youthful.
6 x retinol peels $690.
Or buy a course of AHA peels and receive 6 retinol peels for $500.
THE SUN – Prevention, is absolutely the best medicine against skin ageing. And that means staying out of the sun. One of the biggest ways to keep your youthful skin as long as you possibly can is by steering clear of the tanning booth and sunbaking, and using sunscreen daily. UV rays cause 90% of premature ageing, so healthy sun habits now will be noticed when you’re in your 30’s and beyond.
SMOKING studies show that it hampers the body’s ability to make collagen and also leads to premature wrinkling. Combine a heavy cigarette habit with a lot of sun exposure and you’re more than 10 times more likely to develop wrinkles than people your same age who don’t smoke and who do stay out of the sun.
ANTI-AGEING PRODUCTS: If you’re in your 20’s, you don’t have to be concerned about anti-aging products yet. It just isn’t necessary. In your 20’s you are not yet at a point where a lifting or wrinkle cream is necessary. Simply use a gentle product line. An antioxidant moisturizer or serum is great. Luzern’s Force De Vie is lightweight and full of anti-oxidents, also Aspects Vitamin B. They help minimize the damage caused by sun exposure, smoking, heavy make-up and pollution.
ACNE: Your skin may be shifting from teenage acne to the adult variety, which means breakouts migrating to your chin and jawline or, for an unlucky few, occurring in both former (forehead, nose) and newer areas simultaneously. If you are seeing breakouts on your jaw and chin this is a sign of hormones, if they are on your forehead this can be seen as a sign of stress. It is important not to strip your skin with oily and acne products. These products will strip all the oil off your skin, but it is not oil causing the problems, it is bacteria and hormone levels. Spot treatments (aspects spot treat) to kill bacteria are great, but use acne products in moderation.
You should be cleansing twice a day with a milk (dry skin) or foaming (oily skin) cleanser. stay away from wipes, they will dry out your skin. If you have acne exfoliation is an important part to allow the skin to breathe. this is to be done twice a week. (nothing too strong or you will cause redness and broken blood vessels- harder does not mean better) and a light moisturiser.
If you are suffering any of these problems, come and chat to me at Shine Skin and Body in Kew. Payot has a great range for people starting out.