Home rolling for maximum serum penetration

Want to get more out of your homecare routine? Want to take your skin to another level? Home rolling may be the answer to your needs.

Dermaroller is a hand-held roller studded with very fine needles. When rolled across the skin it creates micro channels to help drive active ingredients deeper into the top layers. The roller penetrates through the harder outer skin layer into the epidermis creating a channel for your wonderful serums to slide straight down right into the middle of the epidermis where the rest of your skin is buzzing around working hard to produce collagen, elastin, building strength, and communicating. This means that you will get 80-100% effectiveness from your serums instead of the 1-30% you are currently getting.

Our skin is not only the biggest organ, but it also protects the body against external influences such as temperatures, bacteria, excessive water loss, makeup, dust etc. The normal average human skin has a thickness of 1.5 mm and is categorised in three major zones: Epidermis (0.12 mm), dermis and sub-dermis (1.5 mm).

The Epidermis has five layers in total; the top layer is called the Stratum Corneum. Its thickness is about a hundredth of a millimeter, and it is hard to believe that this thin layer is the main barrier and protection for our body. The Stratum Corneum is constantly replaced by the lower epidermal layers.

Your skin is designed to protect you from outside influences, hence your products need to penetrate through that hard outer layer (the stratum corneum) to get to all the cells beneath where all the real work is being done. This can be hard even for good products, so home rolling at a depth of 0.2 allows little micro channels to open up to allow all your great products to get to where you need them.

So what percentage of your skincare regimen actually penetrates into viable layers where the active ingredient can stimulate the skin?

Depending on the ‘delivery system’ used in the formulation, the penetration can vary from each skincare brand to the next. Generic, no name brands probably have less than 1% penetration – clinical cosmeceutical brands probably have closer to 30%… but there is still a 70-99% waste with each application.

Shine now stocks Dermaroller – a 0.2 home rolling device which can be used twice a week at the beginning, building up to 5-7 days a week. Ongoing use will make sure your skincare is working at its optimum level to create healthier, plump, balanced, radiant and well-hydrated skin plus improve your skin tone depending on which serums you use.

According to clinical dermatologists, retinol (or vitamin A) is one of the few ingredients with a demonstrated
ability to reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It is able to alter the behavior of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner.

Why does skin respond so well?

Retinol absorbs quickly into the skin from surface application. It has a molecular structure that’s tiny enough to get into the lower layers of skin, where it finds collagen and elastin. Retinol is proven to improve  fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and color, and your skin’s hydration levels.

Why use it? 

  • Reduce the symptoms of rosacea and wound healing
  • exfoliates – making skin smooth and even toned
  • repairs the cellular structure of the skin – optimising your UV protection
  • decreases oil production and treats acne brilliantly
  • promotes a healthy skin
  • improves hydration
  •  strengthens the skin

At Shine we have retinol in our Retinol Brulee serum $115. This lasts for about 6mths, 1 pump a night under your moisturiser.  With all Retinols you need to ease you way onto it as it is quite active. We recommend once every 3 nights for 1-2 weeks then every night. For a more sensitive skin it would be less.

We also offer retinol peels for people wanting more results. They are much more intensive and offer quicker and better results. You have 6 peels in total for best results-1 every 3-4 weeks and need to be on retinol brulee for 2 weeks prior. You would not believe your skin at the end of the series.

 

Exfoliation is the best product to change your skin around. It will give you skin glow, giving you a radiant, healthy skin.

Oily-it helps balance the oil flow,

Dry- takes off the rough outer layer making it softer and allowing moisturisers to penetrate,

Acne-allow the skin to breathe. Some can be anti-bacterial.

Exfoliaiton is a step missing in a lot of peoples skin care routine. You can’t be bothered, forget or don’t have the time.

With so many different types of exfoliants out there at the moment, it is now easier than ever… You just need to pick the right one for you.

 

Light everyday scrub-   

(for a balanced normal skin type) Also referred to as microexfoliants. They are very light and suited to quite a balanced skin that needs only a boost. They are more of a top layer polish than through exfoliation. If you have concerns or problems with your skin then these are not for you.  Ask about douceur scrub

Scrubs

(for all skin types except sensitive) Never go rough. It shouldn’t hurt or turn you red. Scrubs are great for people short on time and want something quick to do in the shower. Ask about Cellabation

AHA’s

(all skins but great for congestion and acne) The most through of all exfoliants. Disolves the build up of skin and loosens the top layers of skin. They are antibacterial so great for acne. Sometimes come in a gel that you just put on at night under your moisturiser- can’t get easier (just not for sensitive skin) Ask about Exfol 15

 Peels

(any skin type, great for sensitive, but not acne) hese are creams of gels that you apply allow to dry and then rub off. Great for sensitive or broken capalliary skin. Very gentle, but not great if you are losing tone in your skin as it can be hard to get off and feel like you are dragging your skin too much. Not great for acne because if you rub over pimple you can take the top off and spread bacteria. Ask about Fruit Enzyme Peel.

So if you haven’t already add an exfoliant to your routine to get a radiant glowing skin.

 

From your 60’s on is a great time for your skin because your hormones have finished fluctuating and your skin is becoming more stable. Loss of tone is the main problem– it comes with the territory, but a combination of good skincare and regular facials can help it still look beautiful, radiant and youthful.

Most skin-rejuvenation strategies will work, but only at a slower pace and to a lesser degree. It doesn’t mean don’t do them, it is never too late to slow down the ageing process.

In our sixties we have loose, sagging skin somewhere. Skin cells have 30 per cent less natural moisture now than when you were younger, so skin’s noticeably drier, thinner, tighter and flakier.

Inconsistent sun protection means age spots are showing up. AHA’s and Vitamin C that you may have started earlier are still the way to go, if you haven’t started them already-get on board.

Treat your skin gently. Our skin becomes more fragile as we age, and it is more easily damaged. If you haven’t had a good skincare regime up till now, start off gently and introduce new products or treatments slowly. If you have been looking after you skin- keep up the good work and even change some things around a bit more.

Homecare- gentle is the word- a gentle milk cleanser, a light scrub or preferably one that contains aha’s, a tinted sunscreen in your moisturiser for day and a intensily hydrating moisturiser at night. In most case the thicker the better.

Treatments- if starting out just do a standard facial, let your therapist get used to your skin then you can go harder.

But hydration and toning are your key focus now.

In your fifties, the skin changes you noticed in your forties becomes more noticeable.

This is for a number of reasons: slower cell turnover, loss of skin elasticity, lack of collagen production, sun damage, or even a drop in estrogen which decreases oil production.

Menopause can cause a multitude of skin problems. The drop on estrogen can extreme dryness, acne, and rosacea.

Combating acne. A decline in estrogen during menopause can dramatically affect the skin. As testosterone increases and cell renewal slows down, acne can resurface. Avoid stripping your skin as you may have done in your teens, your skin is more fragile and dryer now, it will only cause more problems. Use a spot treatment to avoid damaging other parts of your skin.

Pigmentation- It’s never too late to prevent sun damage and to stop the progression of damage you may already have. AHA’s and Vitamin C are the 2 ingredients you need to look for. Preferably in a serum and night cream for them to be more active.

Don’t Forget Your Neck and décolleté Your skin isn’t the only thing that gives your age away. As there are fewer sebaceous glands to lubricate the skin on the neck, it is dryer quicker this leads to accelerated ageing which in turn leads to the onset of sagging skin and deep wrinkles. The best way to treat this area is with a neck serum- formulated to help more with loss of tone. Everyday all your products should come down onto your neck. But always rub on upwards.

Hands- always forgotten, but gives away a woman’s age. With whatever is left over after apply serums and creams to face wipe on the back of your hands.

Regular exfoliating- Is the best way to keep skin looking young. As we age our cell turnover slows for 28 days to as much as 40 days. This leaves the skin looking dull and dry. Exfoliation will speed up this process giving a wonderful glow to your skin.

Serums- To stimulate collagen(responsible for wrinkles and tone) try products with vitamin C (look for L-ascorbic acid on the label) and retinol. Serums are the most powerful of all your products, and by your 50’s you should most defiantly be on one or both. If not start now.

Moisturise- This is the most important step. It will plump up fine lines giving your skin a softness. Look for anti-oxidant, anti-ageing products. Every little bit helps.
Sunscreen
– At the top of any skincare regimen. Sun damage can break down collagen which causes premature aging signs like fine lines and wrinkles.

Make-up- Avoid powders and heavy eye makeup. It will settle into wrinkles and take on a mask-like appearance, making you look older. Instead, try a tinted moisturiser that will intensely hydrate the area whilst offering a radiant boost of colour. Diffusive rather than masking pigments will make skin look more radiant, Choose soft hues for the eyes like grey or brown liner.

Facials- Peels are fantastic. If you are concerned about pigmentation or dullness then a course of AHA peels would be best, if it is ageing- then retinol peels you can’t go past.

 

We have now added 3 different retinol peels to our menu so we can tailor make a program for you. Mention this blog to receive a free 30min massage with each retinol facial you book. (Vit A must be used proir to starting retinol facials)

Visit our anti-ageing facial page for more details

Call us to find out more 98191034

During our 40s, the body is undergoing a lot changes, and the skin is no exception. Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall the skin can go all over the place-dryness, sunspots, dull even acne.

DRY SKIN-many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, can can be easily fixed, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes, forehead and mouth. A good moisturiser for a drier skin type works well at plumping fine lines as well as hydrating the skin. You could try Payot’s Nutricia Crème. It’s main ingredient in Honey which helps put a watertight layer on the skin allowing moisturise to stay.

DULL SKIN: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lack-luster complexion. Using AHA’s can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. This can be done in cleansers, lotions or serums. They will gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin. Aspect as a cosmecutical range has Exfol 15, which is a serum applied nightly to help exfoliate the skin, also for those time poor the Purastat cleanser makes using AHA’s easy. A course of AHA peels will speed up the process and get you going to healthy skin a lot quicker.

ADULT ACNE: “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is normally due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid such as PCA’s Spot Treat can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. Again AHA peels are a great facial treatment will give you results. Exfoliation is also really important.

WRINKLES: These started in your 30’s, but now they get deeper. Genetics, sun damage, and skin-care routines all contribute to how fast or slow the skin ages. If you haven’t started on anti-ageing products already, by your 40’s you should well and truly be on them. It’s not too late, we will age more and more, so get in now before your lines get deeper. Retinol should be your No 1 ingredient. Aspect has Retinol Brulee. Retinol is the only ingredient that can turn back some signs of ageing. Boost its benefits by adding in an AHA twice a week. Because they stimulate cell renewal in different ways, you’ll get maximum improvement using both.

SKINCARE: So step up your efforts with stronger, multitasking treatments that combine several proven ingredients. Retinol, AHA’s and Vitamin C are all great products. You need active products to give you the best results possible. And don’t forget your sunscreen- you should be on it by now every day! 🙂

IN SALON Treatments at Shine Skin and Body.

A Course of AHA peels are the answer! Effective and gentle with no downtime or redness, rejuvenate dull, sluggish skin with a course of AHA peels. Get your skin glowing, improve skin cell turnover, decongest blocked pores, blackheads and acne, and smooth away the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The ultimate winter skin treat!

On special at the moment at these prices
Try one now for $60
3x 30min peels $190
6 x 30min peels $350
3 x 75min peels $265

Retinol Peels – Turn back time with the natural power of retinol – the only ingredient known to penetrate the deeper layers of your skin to reduce the signs of ageing, stimulate collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production, and leave your complexion plumped, refreshed and youthful.
6 x retinol peels $690.
Or buy a course of AHA peels and receive 6 retinol peels for $500.

THE SUN – Prevention, is absolutely the best medicine against skin ageing. And that means staying out of the sun. One of the biggest ways to keep your youthful skin as long as you possibly can is by steering clear of the tanning booth and sunbaking, and using sunscreen daily. UV rays cause 90% of premature ageing, so healthy sun habits now will be noticed when you’re in your 30’s and beyond.

SMOKING studies show that it hampers the body’s ability to make collagen and also leads to premature wrinkling. Combine a heavy cigarette habit with a lot of sun exposure and you’re more than 10 times more likely to develop wrinkles than people your same age who don’t smoke and who do stay out of the sun.

ANTI-AGEING PRODUCTS: If you’re in your 20’s, you don’t have to be concerned about anti-aging products yet. It just isn’t necessary. In your 20’s you are not yet at a point where a lifting or wrinkle cream is necessary. Simply use a gentle product line. An antioxidant moisturizer or serum is great. Luzern’s Force De Vie is lightweight and full of anti-oxidents, also Aspects Vitamin B. They help minimize the damage caused by sun exposure, smoking, heavy make-up and pollution.

ACNE: Your skin may be shifting from teenage acne to the adult variety, which means breakouts migrating to your chin and jawline or, for an unlucky few, occurring in both former (forehead, nose) and newer areas simultaneously. If you are seeing breakouts on your jaw and chin this is a sign of hormones, if they are on your forehead this can be seen as a sign of stress. It is important not to strip your skin with oily and acne products. These products will strip all the oil off your skin, but it is not oil causing the problems, it is bacteria and hormone levels. Spot treatments (aspects spot treat) to kill bacteria are great, but use acne products in moderation.

SKINCARE

You should be cleansing twice a day with a milk (dry skin) or foaming (oily skin) cleanser. stay away from wipes, they will dry out your skin. If you have acne exfoliation is an important part to allow the skin to breathe. this is to be done twice a week. (nothing too strong or you will cause redness and broken blood vessels- harder does not mean better) and a light moisturiser.

If you are suffering any of these problems, come and chat to me at Shine Skin and Body in Kew. Payot has a great range for people starting out.