Retinol (Vitamin A) works on so many skin types in so many ways, but what I wanted to do today was talk about it in relation to acne.
How Retinol works.
Retinol is the only ingredient proven without a doubt to improve the cellular function of the skin.
Retinol stimulates and regulates certain functions in the skin. It works at a cellular level-meaning it penetrates deep to work on all layers of the skin. It works on the sebocyte (oil) cells as mentioned below, it also works by stimulating the mitochondria- which is the energy powerhouse in your skin cell increasing overall cell health and function. Your skin cells have Vitamin A antennas on them allowing them to feed on the vitamin A and then repair any deficiencies with it.
As mentioned above you skin cells have little antennas on them to allow them to feed on Vitamin A in your skin. Your sebocyte (oil) cells have them as well. Your sebocyte cells go through mitosis (which is cell death to allow new cells to be produced.) When these cells are healthy they breakdown as they are meant to and leave very little behind, but if they are unhealthy they leave a lot of debris behind, this adds to built up debris in your pores leading to congestion and acne. This is why it is important to use Vitamin A (and B) serum as it feeds the cell making it healthier and break down in a healthy way.
By making the sebocyte cell healthier we reduce the size of the sebaceous gland reducing oil production.
Vitamin A prevents the rise of an enzyme called collagenase it’s an enzyme that breaks down collagen and helps to stimulate the production of new collagen.
The quicker your skin heals the less scaring you are left with. The main component of the wound healing process is collagen. With the right amount of collagen production in your skin, your wound will heal faster allowing the skin cells to continue with the healing process underneath.
The skin naturally sheds dead skin cells every 28-40 days on average, this slows down as we age and why your skin never seems as bright and glowing as it did when you were younger.
When skin is healthy as new skin cells are born the older skin cells are pushed up through the layers of the skin until it reaches the top layer the known as the stratum corneum. By the time the cell reaches this layer, it can be rough, dry and flaky. This is what we consider as a dead skin cell. New skin cells continue to arrive at the skin’s surface, pushing older cells off from beneath.
Cell turnover though isn’t as efficient in people with acne. In those with acne, the natural process is interrupted. Acne-prone skin produces more dead skin cells than other skins and these cells don’t properly shed. This condition is called retention hyperkeratosis.
In normal functioning skin, excess dead skin cells are constantly being sloughed away naturally. In acne-prone skin, dead cells remain stuck on the skin’s surface and within the follicle, creating clogged pores. This is why speeding up the cell process by increasing cell turnover is important. You can do this by exfoliating on the surface which is important, but you can over exfoliate, which is why using Vitamin A by increasing the new cell production from within reduces irritation and dryness on the top layer.
Keep an eye out for our post on our new Vitamin A products in store from this week.
Having acne is one thing. Being left with the memories of them is another. But don’t worry, this acne expert has some advice that will help treat those scars.
You finally succeed in clearing your acne, but sometimes you are left with scarring, which can often be as difficult to manage as the acne itself. So what do you do now? Will they ever go away? How do you treat it?
Scars from acne can vary in their appearance, depending on the type of scar and the cause of the scar itself. Scars are created when an injury occurs, whether you picked at your skin, or you have large, deep inflamed cystic acne.
When it comes to scarring types, there are two major ones: pitted scars and PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) scars.
We have a lot of success helping people out and thought I might share one story.
Emma came to us in January. She had become frustrated after trying many different treatments with no luck in clearing up her skin, she happened upon one of the blogs written about us and decided to give us a call. After a short conversation she was willing to trust us to look after her skin and help clear her acne.
A little background on Emma.
Her skin was always pretty clear throughout her teenage years, the odd pimple every now and then, but apart from that she had good skin. It was about 2 years ago when she was 24, that her skin started to change. Her forehead was getting congested with whiteheads and blackheads under the skin with some inflammation and the odd pimple. then she noticed some appearing on her chin and then her jaw as well. As you can see from her before photo her forehead ended up quite congested before she came to us.
She had experimented with harsh skincare products, searched You tube videos for tricks to dry out acne, being a vegan she tried going natural and looked at her diet. She had facials (no extractions) and when all else failed- covered everything up with make-up.
Her treatment plan
On her first visit to us she had our Shine Skin Solutions treatment where we took the time to go through her history- we looked at her current skincare (which wasn’t too bad, just not enough active ingredients) and checked all her makeup, went over her diet, medication and health and lifestyle.
We started off with extractions and added a near infra-red LED light therapy. This consists off cleansing, exfoliating, steam and deep cleanser, then a long extraction session ending in the near infrared LED light to speed up the healing process and the calm down the inflammation.
Emma came back 2 weeks later for an extraction facial followed by LED. The results of her first facial blew us both away. She had probably about an 80% clearance from the one facial.
Now this doesn’t happen for everyone, it can depend on the cause of their acne. For Emma- we couldn’t really pinpoint a reason, from having such amazing clearance in one facial normally points to something has happened to cause a spike in bacteria/inflammation in the skin, then it has just gotten out of control and become more of a bacterial issue.
She was happy with the results- but she was going to USA for a month. We were both a little worried about how the condition of her skin would be on her return.
Her skin did re-lapsed while in America. She brought a few products that contained BHA’s that made her skin purge toxins and breakout. After a frantic email, we took a couple of the products out of her routine and that calmed her skin down a little.
On her return in Feb her third visit, her skin was not as bad as we expected it to be. She had breakouts on her forehead we did an Extraction facial for a good clean out and to get her skin back into control again finished off with an LED.
We have continued with her treatment plan of Extraction facial with LED every 2 weeks for 4 sessions, then out to 3 weeks now on to every 4 weeks.
It’s a credit to Emma that she saw it through (stayed committed to her treatments) many people in her situation would have stopped after the first facial after seeing massive improvements with their skin. but we need to keep facials going to ensure we stop the issue from coming back.
Emma now comes for monthly facials and as she has used up her old skincare has introduced new products perfectly suited to be active enough without causing dryness or sensitivity.
Read her review below.
Hurry up and make an appointment if you’re struggling with acne or congested skin! When I first called Sheridan I was literally in tears of frustration with my skin especially my forehead. After years of having crystal clear skin all of a sudden no amount of expensive products or tricks would clear my bumpy spotty forehead. Sheridan and her team understood exactly what I was going through, gave me great advice and went through all of my products and told me which ones I could keep and which wouldn’t work for me without ever selling me anything unnecessary. Her expert extraction facials have turned everything around! It’s a process and I’m still having treatments but I can overstate the improvement not just in my skins appearance but my confidence and happiness knowing when my skin plays up I have an expert I can trust to help me. Stop wasting your time and money elsewhere and get the pros to help you out. You’ll wish you had done it sooner, I know I Do! Thank you Shine!
If you have been struggling book an appointment and come in and see us.
Vitamin B is not an occurring vitamin in our bodies and cannot be stored. With all our vitamin B needing to be consumed through our diet or applied topically, vitamin B deficiency is a common cause of many skin conditions.
It is perfect for
-Red or irritated skin- great for rosacea sufferers
-Dull, yellow, sallow
-Dry and flaky.
There are eight forms of vitamin B that often create a vitamin B complex. The many forms of vitamin B and the vast benefits of each, makes a Vitamin B complex perfect for almost all skin types and conditions. The main reason for recommending vitamin B is normally for repairing and strengthening the skin.
B1(Thiamine) is a powerful antioxidant. This means it helps protect the skin from external influences that may damage it.
B2 and B6 aids in regulating the skins sebum production, making it suitable for those clients with an oil flow, who may be worried about congesting their skin. It also facilitates normal healthy skin cells.
Vitamin B3 (niacin) strengthens the skins barrier function and increases production of one of the most important lipids (ceramides) this helps preventing trans epidermal water loss therefore strengthening the skin. It enables the skin to lock in moisture and simultaneously keeps out irritants. Vitamin B3 is responsible for stimulating the skins energy source, increasing cell growth and repairing damaged cells.
B5(Panthenol)Soothes and hydrates.
Vitamin B9 (Folic acid) helps to detox the skin, helping to reduce the occurrence of breakouts. Vitamin B9 is also essential for healthy cell production and tissue growth, helping to ensure the skin has optimum cell turnover.
Vitamin B12 helps to regulate the production of pigment in the skin, helping to prevent dark spots and pigmentation. Vitamin B12 also promotes the growth of healthy skin cells and helps to repair damaged skin.
The ultimate reasons for Vitamin B is to balance oil and hydration, repair the barrier and brighten the skin.
If you are interested in more information come and chat to one of our girls as to what is the right vitamin for you.
A lot of people believe that acne is caused by oil and dirt. This isn’t necessarily true. There are many causes for acne and having oil is just one of them. There are hormones, stress, medication, illness, pregnancy…
I find that one of the most major causes of out of control acne is bacterial. Whilst it may have been started with one of the reasons above, when it is not treated the skin becomes infected and bacteria spreads and before you know it you have acne that you just can’t clear up.
There are some things that are done that just make acne worse.
Scrubbing the skin will actually worsen acne, as it can compromise the skin’s protective barrier and increase irritation. People believe that cleansing and scrubbing with keep the skin cleaner therefore reduce acne. This isn’t the case. You will over sensitise the area causing redness and irritation. If the skin is irritated then this can lead to other problems. The ones I like best are enzymes or aha exfoliants. They work deeper, more thoroughly and less harsh.
Instead, gently wash with a pH-balanced cleanser to lessen inflammation. If you are using an AHA cleanser use 1 x day at night and use a cleanser more gentle in the morning.
Again coming back to the first problem that people believe their acne is caused by oil so they choose oily skin products which strip the skin. Harsh cleansers, alkaline bar soaps, and alcohol-based products may worsen acne.
The gentler you are with your skin the calmer and less inflamed it will be. Strong products are great, but should be used in moderation.
You need to nourish your skin as well as have antibacterial products. It is about getting the balance right.
Choose non-comedogenic skincare, Noncomedogenic products don’t contain ingredients that tend to clog pores in people with acne-prone skin.
Certain ingredients found in products such as make-up, sunscreen and moisturizers are more likely to clog pores. The main culprit is Talc.
We all do this one! (and know we shouldn’t) Picking pimples prolongs healing time and raises the risk of scarring. Infected material can get pushed further into the skin, leading to more swelling and redness.
People also normally pick when their skin in unclean or they have make-up on. The area is not steralized, they don’t know what they are doing and they push and tear the skin which causes a scar to form, they either don’t get everything out (causing more infection) or they go too far (causing broken capillaries, more infection or more inflammation)
We all know not to do it!
It’s time to make an appointment before acne starts taking a toll on your skin and self-esteem. The longer you leave it the worse it gets, the more scarring it causes, leading to long term damage that is hard to fix.
We have many ways to treat acne. Extraction facials, led light therapy, aha and bha peels and oxygen treatments.
It’s also possible a person could have rosacea which usually requires different treatment than acne. It is a long-term disease that causes redness and pimples. People can mix this up with acne and if you treat it as acne then your skin will flair up worse.
Now I might get in trouble for this, but people are prescribed medication way too much these days. It scares me. For some people it is necessary. But it shouldn’t be a 1st stop their can be a lot of unpleasant side effects. Try extraction facials 1st, try good skin care that has been prescribed to you-and give them both a good go, not just 1 facial or a product you brought from a chemist.
The acne didn’t appear over night and it is not going to disappear over night. Facials are an ongoing solution. Depending on your skin you will start out with a facial every 1-4 weeks. When we have your skin in control we then start spacing out the facials.
Once we have cleared up your skin it is important to keep up maintainence. This is where a lot of people start to get into trouble. You acne was highly likely caused from getting one or two pimples, then one or two more, then another one and before you know it, it has blown up, Having a regular facial every 4-6 weeks gets rid of those pimples when they come up so you don’t end up back where you were.
To keep skin blemish-free, most people need to continue usage with at least one acne product. It may be a few times a week or once a day, but a good at home skin care routine is a must.
Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis – where collagen, elastin and blood vessels live – to reduce wrinkles and increase blood flow to the surface of your skin. It increases the flow of collagen to slow down the ageing process of your skin.
Vitamin A can help to reduce the activity of sebaceous glands – when it comes into contact with oil cells it gets to work to clean up the oil slick by dramatically decreasing sebum production. In some cases, treatment with vitamin A can decrease the production of sebum by up to 90%.
For skin health
Vitamin A is both an antioxidant and a cell communicator – triggering cells to produce everything they need to keep your skin in tip-top shape. It increases cell turnover and exfoliates the skin from within to repair DNA, reprogram cellular function and recharge damaged cells to function normally again.
Cosmeceutical skin care products deliver active ingredients deep into the dermis (your skin’s layers) where the real work needs to be done. Active ingredients include retinaldehyde-liposome and AGP (arabino-galactan-protein), a molecular transport antioxidant.
Other types of skin care products rarely have the ability to go as deep as a cosmeceutical without causing irritation. Cosmeceutical skin care delivers active ingredients including Vitamin A through your skin’s structures to the receptor on the cell. This delivery system is both gentle and effective to prevent dehydration, redness and irritation.
To achieve the full benefit of products containing vitamin A, cleanse your skin before applying your serums to allow maximum penetration, and leave them on overnight to let them work their magic.
NOTE: Like many vitamins, Vitamin A is not stable and can lose its potency when exposed to sunlight, therefore we recommend using your serums at night when you skin is in a state of repair and there is no risk of exposure to UV light. Also look for packaging that protects the stability of the ingredients with minimal exposure to air and light.
We have four fantastic Vitamin A facials available at Shine – each tailored to address specific skin needs:
Retinol Brûlée –combines AHA, vitamin A and vitamin B to brighten your complexion and smooth away fine lines. Great for more sensitive skin.
Benefit Peel –offers the wow factor of vitamins A and C combined to nourish and plump your skin with vital nutrients and antioxidants.
Purity Peel –combines acne fighting powerhouse ingredients AHA, BHA, vitamin A and zinc to decongest pores for a clearer, healthier complexion.
Timeless –our top shelf vitamin A peel offers significant cell turnover resulting in smoother, denser and hydrated skin. The combination of AHAs, vitamin A and antioxidants firms up your complexion and gets it glowing.
Vitamin A – home care
Come in and chat to us about the right Vitamin A serum for your skin – we have five fantastic options each formulated to address different skin concerns along with delivering a good dose of ‘super’ Vitamin A into your skin.
Check out our new Vitamin A promotion on our specials page at shineskinandbody.com.au or see below – available until August 2017.
I am excited to announce that we have introduced an innovative new treatment at Shine called Dermal needling, which, I know, might sound a little scary, but I promise you, it will revolutionise your skin!
So let me explain.
But first, let me tell you about our philosophy and where Shine fits into the beauty industry.
At Shine, we believe in positivity and results, and we have invested the time to research the best treatments and innovations to help you achieve optimum skin health.
But sometimes the best techniques take time in order to achieve long-term lasting results.
For example, we don’t offer laser treatment because we believe that, while it may give you fast results, it places way too much stress on your skin in the long term and the damage can be hard to repair. And we don’t offer chemical peels because they strip back the top layer of skin exposing it to external bacteria and infections, leaving it inflamed and so sensitive to sunlight that some people have to stay indoors for 5-7 days after a treatment. Doesn’t sound pleasant, does it?
At Shine, we believe there has to be a gentler, better way that can be sustained for the long-term health of your skin (i.e. why do a two day juice detox to lose 5kg, when eating a balanced diet is safer and will give you lasting results?).
Two years ago, we introduced LED light therapy to offer our clients who suffer with acne a gentle yet result-driven treatment that really works. Your skin has the ability to absorb light and convert it into energy, depending on the colour of the light used. Blue light works to kill surface bacteria; red light goes a little deeper to flush out the lymphatic system and remove blockages or waste that cause acne to build up; and infra-red light targets the inner layers to speed up the healing process. There is no downtime, no dryness or inflammation, no peeling, and you can walk straight out of salon. Yes, you do need a series of treatments to see long-term results (although you will see a difference after the first treatment) but it is painless and gentle on your skin.
So then we came to the next step. We were getting great results and clearing people’s acne. What about reducing scarring and achieving optimal results from your skincare?
This year we have introduced dermal needling. Basically, it is a pen with six tiny needles on the end that penetrate into the top layers of the skin to create micro-channels that allow your wonderful serums to get to where they are needed most instead of fighting through a tough outer barrier. It also works to loosen fibrous tissue and soften the appearance scarring and indented scars (imagine you have a rope from your scar holding the top layer down to your dermis – the lowest layers of your skin – creating a dent. The deeper the dent, the bigger the rope and the stronger the hold). Dermal needling starts to fray and break that rope so its hold isn’t so firm, and the more sessions you have the flatter the scar becomes. With dermal needling you may see about a 70% reduction in scarring after 6-9 treatments. We use a gentle numbing cream to ensure the whole experience is painless, and there is minimal downtime. Your skin may look and feel a little red the evening after the treatment (like sunburn), and you may experience some light dryness and flakiness 3-5 days afterwards so we encourage you to come back for a mini facial to check the results and help calm any ongoing inflammation.
So we are about great results, great skin, gentle treatments and minimal downtime in beautiful surrounds with some pretty cool music and, most importantly, very knowledgeable therapists who you can trust and whose main aim is to help you reach long-term complexion perfection.
Come into Shine and have a chat to us about dermal needling or any of our other treatments, or visit www.shineskinandbody.com.au
One of the most common skin conditions we see at Shine is acne. But one of the biggest issues we see in new clients is that they have tried to combat their acne issues by stripping their skin of good oils with the wrong skincare, making it even oilier but also with dry, scaly patches – so in general their skin presents as red, inflamed and aggravated. In about 90% of cases oily skin is not to blame for the breakouts – it is usually hormones, stress, diet or digestion.
I know, I know…. You are saying, “But MY skin is oily!”
Let me explain…
Oil is not your enemy. Too much oil is. But we all need good oils in our skin to keep it hydrated, nourished, balanced, working correctly and to have a healthy glowing complexion. Oil for your skin is like oil with food. There is good oil and bad oil. You need good oils (like the oils found in fish, nuts and avocado) to ensure everything in your body is lubricated and working well to absorb nutrients and maintain good health. What you don’t need is an excess of bad oils (think trans fats in fast food and greasy takeaway). This can spell bad news for your heart, your other essential organs, and even your skin, leaving you feeling sluggish and unhealthy.
When you use skincare products targeted for oily complexions and acne-prone skin you are probably stripping out all the essential oils as well as the bad ones because many skincare brands which are developed for super-oily skin are actually created to strip out as much oil as possible, no matter if it is good or bad. So you end up with dehydrated, stressed out skin that is actually screaming out for some good oil. And plenty of hydration. The result? Your body responds to this distress signal and goes into overdrive producing extra oils so you end up with a major grease problem and major inflammation and dehydration because your skin is in shock. What does that look like? Break-outs and red, dry patches of skin – so both oily and dry at the same time!
Is this starting to sound like your skin now? A little of everything?
The first step is to balance out your skin using the right combination skincare products – or for some people, specific hydrating products – to calm down your stressed out complexion and slow down the excess oil production.
At Shine, when you book in for a skin consultation we will do a thorough skin analysis before discussing with you the best treatment for your skin type. We encourage you to also bring in any skincare you are currently using so we can understand what you are using and why, and work with you discover what is the best way forward for your skin. We try and work as much as we can with what you already have – because, after all, you have spent good money on it! – but at the same time our job is to make sure you are doing the best for your skin with the right products so we may recommend some changes.
I hope that resolves a few of the myths out there about oily skin and I welcome you to give me a call to discuss your oily skin issues – or pop into Shine for a chat or to book a facial so we can start getting your skin back on track to optimum health.
Want to get more out of your homecare routine? Want to take your skin to another level? Home rolling may be the answer to your needs.
Dermaroller is a hand-held roller studded with very fine needles. When rolled across the skin it creates micro channels to help drive active ingredients deeper into the top layers. The roller penetrates through the harder outer skin layer into the epidermis creating a channel for your wonderful serums to slide straight down right into the middle of the epidermis where the rest of your skin is buzzing around working hard to produce collagen, elastin, building strength, and communicating. This means that you will get 80-100% effectiveness from your serums instead of the 1-30% you are currently getting.
Our skin is not only the biggest organ, but it also protects the body against external influences such as temperatures, bacteria, excessive water loss, makeup, dust etc. The normal average human skin has a thickness of 1.5 mm and is categorised in three major zones: Epidermis (0.12 mm), dermis and sub-dermis (1.5 mm).
The Epidermis has five layers in total; the top layer is called the Stratum Corneum. Its thickness is about a hundredth of a millimeter, and it is hard to believe that this thin layer is the main barrier and protection for our body. The Stratum Corneum is constantly replaced by the lower epidermal layers.
Your skin is designed to protect you from outside influences, hence your products need to penetrate through that hard outer layer (the stratum corneum) to get to all the cells beneath where all the real work is being done. This can be hard even for good products, so home rolling at a depth of 0.2 allows little micro channels to open up to allow all your great products to get to where you need them.
So what percentage of your skincare regimen actually penetrates into viable layers where the active ingredient can stimulate the skin?
Depending on the ‘delivery system’ used in the formulation, the penetration can vary from each skincare brand to the next. Generic, no name brands probably have less than 1% penetration – clinical cosmeceutical brands probably have closer to 30%… but there is still a 70-99% waste with each application.
Shine now stocks Dermaroller – a 0.2 home rolling device which can be used twice a week at the beginning, building up to 5-7 days a week. Ongoing use will make sure your skincare is working at its optimum level to create healthier, plump, balanced, radiant and well-hydrated skin plus improve your skin tone depending on which serums you use.