Retinol (Vitamin A) works on so many skin types in so many ways, but what I wanted to do today was talk about it in relation to acne.
How Retinol works.
Retinol is the only ingredient proven without a doubt to improve the cellular function of the skin.
Retinol stimulates and regulates certain functions in the skin. It works at a cellular level-meaning it penetrates deep to work on all layers of the skin. It works on the sebocyte (oil) cells as mentioned below, it also works by stimulating the mitochondria- which is the energy powerhouse in your skin cell increasing overall cell health and function. Your skin cells have Vitamin A antennas on them allowing them to feed on the vitamin A and then repair any deficiencies with it.
As mentioned above you skin cells have little antennas on them to allow them to feed on Vitamin A in your skin. Your sebocyte (oil) cells have them as well. Your sebocyte cells go through mitosis (which is cell death to allow new cells to be produced.) When these cells are healthy they breakdown as they are meant to and leave very little behind, but if they are unhealthy they leave a lot of debris behind, this adds to built up debris in your pores leading to congestion and acne. This is why it is important to use Vitamin A (and B) serum as it feeds the cell making it healthier and break down in a healthy way.
By making the sebocyte cell healthier we reduce the size of the sebaceous gland reducing oil production.
Vitamin A prevents the rise of an enzyme called collagenase it’s an enzyme that breaks down collagen and helps to stimulate the production of new collagen.
The quicker your skin heals the less scaring you are left with. The main component of the wound healing process is collagen. With the right amount of collagen production in your skin, your wound will heal faster allowing the skin cells to continue with the healing process underneath.
The skin naturally sheds dead skin cells every 28-40 days on average, this slows down as we age and why your skin never seems as bright and glowing as it did when you were younger.
When skin is healthy as new skin cells are born the older skin cells are pushed up through the layers of the skin until it reaches the top layer the known as the stratum corneum. By the time the cell reaches this layer, it can be rough, dry and flaky. This is what we consider as a dead skin cell. New skin cells continue to arrive at the skin’s surface, pushing older cells off from beneath.
Cell turnover though isn’t as efficient in people with acne. In those with acne, the natural process is interrupted. Acne-prone skin produces more dead skin cells than other skins and these cells don’t properly shed. This condition is called retention hyperkeratosis.
In normal functioning skin, excess dead skin cells are constantly being sloughed away naturally. In acne-prone skin, dead cells remain stuck on the skin’s surface and within the follicle, creating clogged pores. This is why speeding up the cell process by increasing cell turnover is important. You can do this by exfoliating on the surface which is important, but you can over exfoliate, which is why using Vitamin A by increasing the new cell production from within reduces irritation and dryness on the top layer.
Keep an eye out for our post on our new Vitamin A products in store from this week.
By Jason Rollard
Why have a men’s facial?
When I was a kid a facial was something ladies went and did while their men played golf.
But a facial could be the secret weapon that gets you ahead in the skincare game and Shine skin and body do a facial custom made for men.
We all want to look younger longer, we all want our skin to look healthy and clean. Men are no different and there are a lot of skincare solutions now aimed at men.You can see adds on TV or online.
The benefit of having a facial before going out and spending hundreds of dollars on skincare would be that a trained professional will look at your skin history through a consultation form and analyse your skin with a megi lamp and recommend the right way forward for taking care of one of your best assets, kinda like a personal trainer for your face.
The Shine skin and body Male facial is the perfect introduction to tailored skincare for men. It’s a facial designed to suit your skin and male skincare needs.
So why have a men’s facial instead of just a regular facial?
There is nothing wrong with having a standard extraction facial or chemical peel, but a facial that is specialized for men’s skin to start with will be a major benefit. Men have thicker skin than women, they have testosterone, they shave and they grow beards. Men generally don’t wear makeup and diet, Sport and sun affect men’s skin differently.
So a facial designed to cater to men’s needs only makes sense.
What happens in a Shine skin and body Male facial?
Before you have a facial it’s a good idea to prepare a little. Have a shave the day before, your therapist will thank you. You can have a facial if you have a beard they will focus on your T-zone, cheeks and forehead.
On your first visit they will have you fill out a consultation form. It’s a good idea to come in a little before your scheduled appointment so you can fill the form in and not cut into you allotted facial time. It will have questions about your medical history what skincare products do you use at home and what concerns you most about your skin.
The therapist that will do your treatment will sit down with you and quickly go through your form asking any questions if she needs more information. Some skin care products have ingredients that cause more harm than good, some medications need special consideration. All this information helps your therapist cater the treatment for you.
The rooms are best described as cosy they are not a sterile medical environment like some skin care clinics and they are not excessively girly, there is no pink paint or frilly material like the Barbie fun house type beauty salons. The rooms feel more like someone’s home, arm chair in the corner, candles, cool music, a bit of Nirvana unplugged a bit of Beatles and a split system controlling the room temperature, very relaxing.
Once you are tucked in it all starts with a skin analysis. This is where your therapist will assess your skin with the aid of a magi lamp, a device that is part lighthouse and part giant magnifying glass. Then checking your T-zone for oiliness and large pores, dryness of the forehead, acne in the cheek area could be a result of diet or food allergies, pigmentation from sun damage, fine lines around the eyes or forehead. This information allows your therapist to target problem areas and cater the facial to your unique needs. For men the skin analysis is done before cleansing there is no make up to remove and this allows the therapist a chance to see the oily areas of the face
Then your therapist will apply Sothys Homme cleanser. It is a great 3 in 1 product. Containing volcanic clay to cleanse and energise the skin, lava grains to exfoliate and smooth and also a mask to revitalize and purify. The smell is perfect for guys and your skin feels so fresh afterwards. Whilst this is on the relaxation starts with a scalp massage.
After 7mins it is removed with a warm towel compress
Desquacrem is a unique product to sothys that penetrates into your pores and cleans them where the oil is. It works like a scrubbing brush giving you a deep cleanse. The steamer is used at the same time to help open the pores allowing the desqucrem to penetrate deeper
Now you are clean!
At this point of the facial we come to folk in the road. This is where the facial is customized to suit differing skin types oily, dry, aged and combination.
If your skin is oily or has acne and blackheads they will do extractions-clearing out all the congestion from your pores. If your acne is inflamed then they finish off with high frequency, it kills bacteria and reduces your chances of break outs after your facial.
If your skin is on the dry side the plan of attack is hydration. Expect a moisturising massage cream and a creamy re hydrating mask.
If age is your concern they apply serums, masks and creams that tackle fine lines and encourage collagen production.
For combination skin they do a blend of extractions, a hydrating mask and anti-ageing serums depending on what is called for and where.
Finishing off with another warm towel, moisturiser and of course sunscreen. Your therapist will talk to about any recommended skincare product when you come to reception so you can keep your skin in top condition long after your facial.
You should have a facial about everyday four weeks, so proper skin care will help you maintain healthy skin inbetween.
When all is said and done the male facial from shine skin and body really is a facial that is designed not only for men but the right facial for an individual.
Jason Rollard owner of Shine skin and body 323 Swan street Richmond, Melbourne Australia.
Having acne is one thing. Being left with the memories of them is another. But don’t worry, this acne expert has some advice that will help treat those scars.
You finally succeed in clearing your acne, but sometimes you are left with scarring, which can often be as difficult to manage as the acne itself. So what do you do now? Will they ever go away? How do you treat it?
Scars from acne can vary in their appearance, depending on the type of scar and the cause of the scar itself. Scars are created when an injury occurs, whether you picked at your skin, or you have large, deep inflamed cystic acne.
When it comes to scarring types, there are two major ones: pitted scars and PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) scars.
Vitamin B is not an occurring vitamin in our bodies and cannot be stored. With all our vitamin B needing to be consumed through our diet or applied topically, vitamin B deficiency is a common cause of many skin conditions.
It is perfect for
-Red or irritated skin- great for rosacea sufferers
-Dull, yellow, sallow
-Dry and flaky.
There are eight forms of vitamin B that often create a vitamin B complex. The many forms of vitamin B and the vast benefits of each, makes a Vitamin B complex perfect for almost all skin types and conditions. The main reason for recommending vitamin B is normally for repairing and strengthening the skin.
B1(Thiamine) is a powerful antioxidant. This means it helps protect the skin from external influences that may damage it.
B2 and B6 aids in regulating the skins sebum production, making it suitable for those clients with an oil flow, who may be worried about congesting their skin. It also facilitates normal healthy skin cells.
Vitamin B3 (niacin) strengthens the skins barrier function and increases production of one of the most important lipids (ceramides) this helps preventing trans epidermal water loss therefore strengthening the skin. It enables the skin to lock in moisture and simultaneously keeps out irritants. Vitamin B3 is responsible for stimulating the skins energy source, increasing cell growth and repairing damaged cells.
B5(Panthenol)Soothes and hydrates.
Vitamin B9 (Folic acid) helps to detox the skin, helping to reduce the occurrence of breakouts. Vitamin B9 is also essential for healthy cell production and tissue growth, helping to ensure the skin has optimum cell turnover.
Vitamin B12 helps to regulate the production of pigment in the skin, helping to prevent dark spots and pigmentation. Vitamin B12 also promotes the growth of healthy skin cells and helps to repair damaged skin.
The ultimate reasons for Vitamin B is to balance oil and hydration, repair the barrier and brighten the skin.
If you are interested in more information come and chat to one of our girls as to what is the right vitamin for you.
A lot of people believe that acne is caused by oil and dirt. This isn’t necessarily true. There are many causes for acne and having oil is just one of them. There are hormones, stress, medication, illness, pregnancy…
I find that one of the most major causes of out of control acne is bacterial. Whilst it may have been started with one of the reasons above, when it is not treated the skin becomes infected and bacteria spreads and before you know it you have acne that you just can’t clear up.
There are some things that are done that just make acne worse.
Scrubbing the skin will actually worsen acne, as it can compromise the skin’s protective barrier and increase irritation. People believe that cleansing and scrubbing with keep the skin cleaner therefore reduce acne. This isn’t the case. You will over sensitise the area causing redness and irritation. If the skin is irritated then this can lead to other problems. The ones I like best are enzymes or aha exfoliants. They work deeper, more thoroughly and less harsh.
Instead, gently wash with a pH-balanced cleanser to lessen inflammation. If you are using an AHA cleanser use 1 x day at night and use a cleanser more gentle in the morning.
Again coming back to the first problem that people believe their acne is caused by oil so they choose oily skin products which strip the skin. Harsh cleansers, alkaline bar soaps, and alcohol-based products may worsen acne.
The gentler you are with your skin the calmer and less inflamed it will be. Strong products are great, but should be used in moderation.
You need to nourish your skin as well as have antibacterial products. It is about getting the balance right.
Choose non-comedogenic skincare, Noncomedogenic products don’t contain ingredients that tend to clog pores in people with acne-prone skin.
Certain ingredients found in products such as make-up, sunscreen and moisturizers are more likely to clog pores. The main culprit is Talc.
We all do this one! (and know we shouldn’t) Picking pimples prolongs healing time and raises the risk of scarring. Infected material can get pushed further into the skin, leading to more swelling and redness.
People also normally pick when their skin in unclean or they have make-up on. The area is not steralized, they don’t know what they are doing and they push and tear the skin which causes a scar to form, they either don’t get everything out (causing more infection) or they go too far (causing broken capillaries, more infection or more inflammation)
We all know not to do it!
It’s time to make an appointment before acne starts taking a toll on your skin and self-esteem. The longer you leave it the worse it gets, the more scarring it causes, leading to long term damage that is hard to fix.
We have many ways to treat acne. Extraction facials, led light therapy, aha and bha peels and oxygen treatments.
It’s also possible a person could have rosacea which usually requires different treatment than acne. It is a long-term disease that causes redness and pimples. People can mix this up with acne and if you treat it as acne then your skin will flair up worse.
Now I might get in trouble for this, but people are prescribed medication way too much these days. It scares me. For some people it is necessary. But it shouldn’t be a 1st stop their can be a lot of unpleasant side effects. Try extraction facials 1st, try good skin care that has been prescribed to you-and give them both a good go, not just 1 facial or a product you brought from a chemist.
The acne didn’t appear over night and it is not going to disappear over night. Facials are an ongoing solution. Depending on your skin you will start out with a facial every 1-4 weeks. When we have your skin in control we then start spacing out the facials.
Once we have cleared up your skin it is important to keep up maintainence. This is where a lot of people start to get into trouble. You acne was highly likely caused from getting one or two pimples, then one or two more, then another one and before you know it, it has blown up, Having a regular facial every 4-6 weeks gets rid of those pimples when they come up so you don’t end up back where you were.
To keep skin blemish-free, most people need to continue usage with at least one acne product. It may be a few times a week or once a day, but a good at home skin care routine is a must.
Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis – where collagen, elastin and blood vessels live – to reduce wrinkles and increase blood flow to the surface of your skin. It increases the flow of collagen to slow down the ageing process of your skin.
Vitamin A can help to reduce the activity of sebaceous glands – when it comes into contact with oil cells it gets to work to clean up the oil slick by dramatically decreasing sebum production. In some cases, treatment with vitamin A can decrease the production of sebum by up to 90%.
For skin health
Vitamin A is both an antioxidant and a cell communicator – triggering cells to produce everything they need to keep your skin in tip-top shape. It increases cell turnover and exfoliates the skin from within to repair DNA, reprogram cellular function and recharge damaged cells to function normally again.
Cosmeceutical skin care products deliver active ingredients deep into the dermis (your skin’s layers) where the real work needs to be done. Active ingredients include retinaldehyde-liposome and AGP (arabino-galactan-protein), a molecular transport antioxidant.
Other types of skin care products rarely have the ability to go as deep as a cosmeceutical without causing irritation. Cosmeceutical skin care delivers active ingredients including Vitamin A through your skin’s structures to the receptor on the cell. This delivery system is both gentle and effective to prevent dehydration, redness and irritation.
To achieve the full benefit of products containing vitamin A, cleanse your skin before applying your serums to allow maximum penetration, and leave them on overnight to let them work their magic.
NOTE: Like many vitamins, Vitamin A is not stable and can lose its potency when exposed to sunlight, therefore we recommend using your serums at night when you skin is in a state of repair and there is no risk of exposure to UV light. Also look for packaging that protects the stability of the ingredients with minimal exposure to air and light.
We have four fantastic Vitamin A facials available at Shine – each tailored to address specific skin needs:
Retinol Brûlée –combines AHA, vitamin A and vitamin B to brighten your complexion and smooth away fine lines. Great for more sensitive skin.
Benefit Peel –offers the wow factor of vitamins A and C combined to nourish and plump your skin with vital nutrients and antioxidants.
Purity Peel –combines acne fighting powerhouse ingredients AHA, BHA, vitamin A and zinc to decongest pores for a clearer, healthier complexion.
Timeless –our top shelf vitamin A peel offers significant cell turnover resulting in smoother, denser and hydrated skin. The combination of AHAs, vitamin A and antioxidants firms up your complexion and gets it glowing.
Vitamin A – home care
Come in and chat to us about the right Vitamin A serum for your skin – we have five fantastic options each formulated to address different skin concerns along with delivering a good dose of ‘super’ Vitamin A into your skin.
Check out our new Vitamin A promotion on our specials page at shineskinandbody.com.au or see below – available until August 2017.
I am excited to announce that we have introduced an innovative new treatment at Shine called Dermal needling, which, I know, might sound a little scary, but I promise you, it will revolutionise your skin!
So let me explain.
But first, let me tell you about our philosophy and where Shine fits into the beauty industry.
At Shine, we believe in positivity and results, and we have invested the time to research the best treatments and innovations to help you achieve optimum skin health.
But sometimes the best techniques take time in order to achieve long-term lasting results.
For example, we don’t offer laser treatment because we believe that, while it may give you fast results, it places way too much stress on your skin in the long term and the damage can be hard to repair. And we don’t offer chemical peels because they strip back the top layer of skin exposing it to external bacteria and infections, leaving it inflamed and so sensitive to sunlight that some people have to stay indoors for 5-7 days after a treatment. Doesn’t sound pleasant, does it?
At Shine, we believe there has to be a gentler, better way that can be sustained for the long-term health of your skin (i.e. why do a two day juice detox to lose 5kg, when eating a balanced diet is safer and will give you lasting results?).
Two years ago, we introduced LED light therapy to offer our clients who suffer with acne a gentle yet result-driven treatment that really works. Your skin has the ability to absorb light and convert it into energy, depending on the colour of the light used. Blue light works to kill surface bacteria; red light goes a little deeper to flush out the lymphatic system and remove blockages or waste that cause acne to build up; and infra-red light targets the inner layers to speed up the healing process. There is no downtime, no dryness or inflammation, no peeling, and you can walk straight out of salon. Yes, you do need a series of treatments to see long-term results (although you will see a difference after the first treatment) but it is painless and gentle on your skin.
So then we came to the next step. We were getting great results and clearing people’s acne. What about reducing scarring and achieving optimal results from your skincare?
This year we have introduced dermal needling. Basically, it is a pen with six tiny needles on the end that penetrate into the top layers of the skin to create micro-channels that allow your wonderful serums to get to where they are needed most instead of fighting through a tough outer barrier. It also works to loosen fibrous tissue and soften the appearance scarring and indented scars (imagine you have a rope from your scar holding the top layer down to your dermis – the lowest layers of your skin – creating a dent. The deeper the dent, the bigger the rope and the stronger the hold). Dermal needling starts to fray and break that rope so its hold isn’t so firm, and the more sessions you have the flatter the scar becomes. With dermal needling you may see about a 70% reduction in scarring after 6-9 treatments. We use a gentle numbing cream to ensure the whole experience is painless, and there is minimal downtime. Your skin may look and feel a little red the evening after the treatment (like sunburn), and you may experience some light dryness and flakiness 3-5 days afterwards so we encourage you to come back for a mini facial to check the results and help calm any ongoing inflammation.
So we are about great results, great skin, gentle treatments and minimal downtime in beautiful surrounds with some pretty cool music and, most importantly, very knowledgeable therapists who you can trust and whose main aim is to help you reach long-term complexion perfection.
Come into Shine and have a chat to us about dermal needling or any of our other treatments, or visit www.shineskinandbody.com.au