A lot of people self diagnose their skin as sensitive, but there are a few different types of sensitive skin.
These skins to the untrained eye can all be very similar, but that is where an experienced therapist can come to your rescue. The 1st step of treating skin comes to correct diagnosis
Causes: over scrubbing, over exposure to the sun, extreme weather conditions, improper use of topical products, medications, too many active ingredients.
Causes: Family history. This is a genetic disorder
Causes: Light skin colour, thinner skin, Red haired gene,
I have had clients come who hold up their hands saying “I’m sensitive” and that is the end of the conversation. Our job is to diagnose which of the above you are. The amount of people who are a true sensitive skin is very small.
It can be scary coming to a salon with these skin types as you are worried about making it worse- but if you choose your salon wisely we can help you return to normal skin. If you are a true sensitive we can help bring a bit more balance to your skin.
When treating any of the above, it all starts out the same. By the time people with these skin types first come to a professional salon, their barrier is normally impaired* and needs fixing. This is always where we always start. Depending on how extreme the sensitivity is we look at ingredients such as oil based Vitamin C’s to heal and calm, rebuilding and strengthening Vitamin A, Vitamin B to rebuild the barrier, or a straight forward sensitive serum to calm. These skin types can also normally be quite dehydrated, so it is important to rehydrate.
By the time you have used 1-3 products (about 1-3yrs) depending on how sensitized you are, we can then start doing some fun staff and start using some more exciting products that can help address other concerns- ageing, dullness, scaring.
By addressing your sensitivity issues though, you will see a glow to your skin, evenness in skin tone, reduction of blotchiness, hydration and a balance of excess oil.
Unsure where you fit? Want a healthy balanced skin? Come see our skin experts at Shine for a in depth skin analysis and get on the right path. Staff at Shine are experienced in diagnosing skin types and repairing skin back to healthy in a gentle way.
*Impaired barrier- this is the top layers of your skin, which has been damaged. that it needs to be repaired 1st. It is like having a hole in the roof, it must be fixed 1st to allow you to repair anything that is underneath.
photo courtesy of dermcenterclinica
Where is this typically seen on the skin?
Either an all over and even spread of congestion or localised on certain parts of the face. Most common areas seen are on or under the cheekbones. Congestion can also develop along the hairline, on the orbital bone, chin, lip line or just in front of the ears.
What ingredients are you looking for?
Talc is the main ingredient we have been focussing on trying to get our clients to avoid, but there are many others to look out for. It may not even be the worst one out there as many articles continually deem it to be safe, as it’s not very high on the comedogenicity scale.
Fatty Acid Esters are what we really should be looking out for and trying to memorise their tricky names. Esters are the combination of Alcohols with Fatty Acids.
Fatty Acids are best for a drier skin that has little oil as they are quite nourishing, but they are food for p.acnes in an oilier skin and can be comedogenic. These are more so related to moisturisers etc. Fatty Acids are not to be confused with EFAs, these are much different.
Fatty Acid Esters are much more comedogenic on the skin because of the reaction the Alcohol has on the Acid when combined. The worst one is Isopropyl Myristate. Other examples are Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Myristyl Myristate and Ethylhexyl Palmitate.
One of the Esters I want to point out is Ethylhexyl Palmitate. It is the second ingredient in all NARS bronzers, Talc being number one. Nearly all who stop using their NARS powders find their skin clears up. We believe it’s because we are getting rid of Talc, but maybe this was the ingredient that was to blame all along. And now that it’s gone, so is the congestion.
Bismuth Oxychloride is said to be better for skin than Talc and is often found in BareMinerals powders. It’s heavier than Talc and has a crystalline structure, meaning these crystals can get stuck inside the pores, not only contributing to congestion but also has the potential to irritate sensitive skins or rosacea. This is more of an issue when it is the main ingredient in powder make up.
Red Dyes (D&C Red) are red tints and pigments used in blush, eyeshadow and lipstick and are derived from coal tar which is extremely comedogenic. This explains those deep blackheads some get directly on the lip line and why the cheekbones are usually the worst!
Why do they put those ingredients in?
Talc has many uses. It absorbs moisture and can make makeup opaque. It is also used as a dilutant. If you were to just have pigment in cosmetics it would be too concentrated and intense, so Talc brings this down a notch.
Fatty Acids are used as thickeners and emollients and give a creamy consistency, some can be used as surfactants.
Fatty Acid Esters are used in cosmetics because they don’t feel as oily as Fatty Acids and other emollients. They also give skin a smooth texture. The interesting thing here is that even though the Esters don’t feel as rich or oily, they are actually much worse for congestion!
Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a derivative of palm oil and has a silicone-like texture, so for this reason is it often used as a replacement to silicones or mineral oil.
Bismuth Oxychloride is used in cosmetics because it has a shimmery, pearlescent appearance and adheres well to skin.
Red Dyes are used to give pigment to blush, eyeshadow and lipstick for example.
Does that mean no-one can use those ingredients?
The effect of comedogenic ingredients are more likely seen in those with more oil flow, or those already with congestion or acne. This is because their skin naturally has a high cell turnover rate, so more dead skin needs to shed off.
Drier skins or those with no family history of acne are a lot less likely to be affected by these ingredients but I wouldn’t say that they are exempt.
Congestion always starts with a blocked pore, but it’s not just makeup that’s to blame. Some people may cleanse or exfoliate incorrectly, or their skin is dehydrated from over stripping or underhydrating, leading to excess dead skin build up. And it’s these factors that need to be taken into consideration. Having an improper skincare routine can allow makeup that was never the problem, to become a problem in those who we may not have expected.
What kind of breakouts are they normally? (cong/cysts/inflammation/redness etc)
Mostly blackheads and whiteheads concentrated to one or more areas, that can eventually develop into pustules or papules if not treated due to bacteria build up. Milia can sometimes appear as a once off or in a patch.
If more than one type of breakout- why are there different types- does it mean different things?
Congestion is always going to be the most common lesion to see on the skin because these ingredients are essentially causing a blockage inside the pore. It’s once those pores become inflamed or bacteria builds up that it will develop into a pustule or papule. This can be due to things like dirty makeup brushes, improper extracting at home/work etc, not removing make up well or at all, hormonal or dietary changes for example. Sometimes only one or two milia may show up on the skin, which is ok as once we they are removed generally they won’t come back. But when someone has a genetic history of milia, they are more prone and make up can exacerbate it. Meaning they could have cheeks full of them as well as the whiteheads and blackheads!
Why does it affect the skin?
All skins have pores all over that produce oil as a protective mechanism and everyone has different amounts of oil flow depending on their DNA. The skin has a cell turnover process where new cells are born in the lower layers and rise up to the surface to shed off. These old dead skin cells can shed off daily. If the opening of the pore becomes blocked, then there is no way this old dead skin can shed off. This is how congestion begins. Comedogenic ingredients are what block the pore and prevent them eliminating debris.
If foundation is the cause how will it show up in the skin? Where?
Because foundation is applied all over the face, it has the potential to cause congestion all over. Those with a lot more oil flow are more likely to experience this, and their blackheads may appear to be quite large. Whereas, if it is someone with a relatively normal amount of oil flow, they may still notice some bigger blackheads, but just in the centre panel of the face.
How can we help as beauty therapists?
Extraction facials will clear the skin up. The severity of the condition will determine how many treatments are needed and the frequency. If the client is noncompliant and still using the products causing it in the first place, then it will come back. So clear explanation as to why and homecare that may include AHAs, BHAs, antibacterial ingredients, mineral make up or efficient make up removing cleansers etc.
How is it fixed?
Throw out the comedogenic makeup!!!! Finding out exactly what it is that is to blame and removing it from the picture.
Stop sleeping in it!!!!! Having emergency makeup wipes around is much better than the damage this does.
Properly remove make up at night time! No removing the leftovers around the eyes in the morning! (so many do this)
Clean makeup brushes regularly to ensure no bacterial build up. If they have been used for a long time without cleaning, best to chuck them and get new ones.
Change to mineral makeup! In saying that more people are switching over to mineral, but mineral doesn’t necessarily mean non-comedogenic. So, we really need to keep our eyes on the ingredient listings for all nasties and not just Talc!
Ever wondered why you are getting breakouts and acne in certain areas of your face? Where your acne is located can explain why you might be getting them. For us at Shine skin and body we use face reading and whilst not an exact science, it does give us a starting point to find out what may be causing your acne. Now this doesn’t apply to every breakout you get ,other random causes may be at fault. (make-up, brushes, your pillowcase or hair products)
I’m going to walk you through face reading, do you have a mirror ready?? You will need one….. Let’s get started.
Area 1 and 3 When right across both sections from temple to temple we look at stress 1st, in the middle of the forehead and normally in an oval shape we look at digestion as this is your bladder zone. Now for random causes-if you are getting breakouts around your hairline this can be oily hair or your hair products.
Area 2 and 10-This is your liver- between your brows and on your temples. Your liver is responsible for metabolism, hormone production, removing toxins and processing nutrients. Medication, poor diet and alcohol consumption all effect this area.
Area 6 and 8 Under your eyes is Kidneys. This organ is responsible for regulating hormone production, removing toxins and waste, and regulating blood pressure. A deficiency is normally seen as dark circles or dryness. We have people ask about products to help with dark circles, but unfortunately it is down to drinking water, eating healthy and sleeping. Keeping the area hydrated will help the area look better as well.
Area 11 and 13
– The lower part of this area is Lungs. People who smoke can get congestion in this area- from the lungs having toxins, but also from the toxins and chemicals in the smoke.
-In circles in the middle of this area is the stomach. Normally connected to food intolerance.
-Cheekbones- pancreas. this is the organ of the digestive system and of the hormone system, so can be related to hormones or food. Also insulin. So diabetics may have a problem in this area. If it is in a straight line it could be your blusher or bronzer- look to see if there is talc in your make-up, if so this could be the cause.
Area 7 – Side of nose and nostril- lungs as well. the tip of nose- heart. The bridge- spine.
Area 11, 12 and 13– Hormones. This is where they go crazy. If it is on your chin it means ovaries, when there are 2 lines of breakouts/congestion/discoloration from corners of mouth down in straight lines it can be ovaries. If you have deep creases from nose to mouth this can show disturbances in stomach and large intestines. If they don’t run past the corner of your mouth it indicates stomach strains.
I would like to stress again, this isn’t an exact science and you shouldn’t self diagnose. When used in conjunction with a thorough consultation process it helps us to narrow down possible causes to help give you more clearance with your acne.
If you need answers to your problems we recommend you book our Shine Skin Solutions. We do an in-depth skin consultation process, we go through your products to check the ingredients, we start clearing your skin and organise a plan to move forward.
At Shine skin and body, we are all about great facials that focus on and treat your skin’s issues – acne treatments and extraction facials are our bread and butter and we believe that’s what sets us apart from the rest. Here’s a snapshot of what we do for clients who suffer from issues such as acne and congestion.
Skin super sleuths
When you visit us for a facial, not only do we treat your skin to clear any congestion, blackheads or pimples, we also delve into your history to find the root cause of the issue. Identifying the cause allows us to work out the best treatment program for your skin and also work with you to prevent the problem for reoccurring.
For example, some clients come to us after trying out TV-advertised acne solutions or medically prescribed creams and supplements that may have worked for a week or two, but have eventually had an adverse effect and inflamed the issue or left redness and scarring.
At Shine, we start off with a comprehensive consultation that allows us to really understand you, your current skincare regimen, and any specific issues you are hoping to resolve.
Our expert team will work with you to identify your main skin issues by asking lots of questions, and taking the time to listen to your concerns and history. This might include a discussion about your diet, medication, work and life stresses and other health issues. Causes could be the anything from the makeup you use, food intolerances, diet changes, hormonal imbalance, digestion issues, serious or small illnesses, or smoking, to name a few.
Time to clean up
After cleansing your skin, we commence a thorough skin check with a magnifying light and sometimes an ultra-violet light (that will show up oil flow). We compare what we’ve discussed with you against what we can actually see on your skin. Does it all add up? If it doesn’t, we may need to ask a few more detailed questions to really get to the cause.
A few issues identified
What can cause breakouts and acnes can vary depending on your history and your skin.
Sometimes it might be a one-off incident that has caused your breakouts. For example, we had a couple of clients who’d had vitamin B injections prescribed by their doctors that had overloaded their systems and resulted in breakouts. We diagnosed the first client by asking questions and doing research. When we met the second client we recognised straight away what we were dealing with. After a couple of questions our suspicions were confirmed.
In other cases, picking at your skin may be the culprit. Before you know it, bacteria can spread and acne can occur! If this is the case, we may recommend a series of facials and some specialised homecare to help clear up the issue.
Once we cleanse your skin and clear away any bacteria, we can see what we are dealing with and this will help us get some more answers and lead us in the right direction.
Treating the issue @ Shine
After we complete the consultation we get to work treating your skin. At Shine we have 14 different facials available and we will work with you to choose the right one for your skin’s needs.
The Shine Skin Solutions facial is targeted at finding the answers for people who just don’t know where to start (you may tried other options that didn’t work, feel like no-one really understands your problem, or tried every product you could think of). It includes a longer consultation process to explore your history and go through your current skincare and makeup regimens.
Our extraction facial also includes an in-depth consultation and analysis of your skin, before we commence a 70-minute treatment that includes cleansing, exfoliation, deep cleansing and steaming, before starting your extractions.
We might add a peel to your treatment:
For seriously inflamed acne, we have specialised treatments that include more extractions and LED light therapy, which kills bacteria and helps the lymphatic system flush out toxins, to calm the skin and speed up the healing process. The great benefit of LED is that it is super-gentle on inflamed skin offering great results and no down time (unlike more aggressive laser treatment, which we don’t use at Shine).
Before you leave
We finish off each treatment by keeping detailed notes on your file (sometimes with pictures) detailing all aspects of your skin, the treatment we did and the progress we have made. This helps us to monitor your progress as we work together to get your skin into its best condition. We may also call or text you a couple of days later to see how your skin is reacting after the treatment.
At Shine, we are passionate about what we do and how we can help our clients reach their skincare goals – call us now if you are ready to begin your journey to beautiful skin.
We have noticed at Shine skin and body how many of you are at a loss as to what you can do about your skin. You have googled (toothpaste on your pimples??) used harsh products for oily/acne skin which made you red and irritated, went to a doctor and was given antibiotics or a dermatologist and recommended Roaccutane.
I want to start by telling you a story of a client who came to see me. She had been getting breakouts for about 2.5 yrs, mainly on her cheeks. her doctor recommended a dermatologist for her to see. She went on antibiotics for 2 years on and off. It would clear up her acne, only to return within a few months. When i saw her she had been to her dermatologist 3 days earlier who in desperation gave her a script for Roaccutane. (A very powerful acne drug with some very long lasting nasty side effects) She came to me as she didn’t want to take it, but didn’t know what to do. We did a full skin consultation with her and skin analysit. We went into depth about what happened when the acne occurred, medications, lifestyle, diet, hormones, skincare and make-up. I had a suspicion…. After starting her facial and doing a skin analysis my suspicion was right. It was her bronzer- It contained talc (as many do) and the most intense part of her breakouts was on her bronzer line. We extracted, she brought new make-up, came back for only 1 more facial and now her skin is clear. A proper consult diving into her history in a lot of depth was all that was needed.
And that is why we now have Shine Skin Solutions. It is a once of treatment that we then recommend your ongoing plan.
We have a lot of success helping people out and thought I might share one story.
Emma came to us in January. She had become frustrated after trying many different treatments with no luck in clearing up her skin, she happened upon one of the blogs written about us and decided to give us a call. After a short conversation she was willing to trust us to look after her skin and help clear her acne.
A little background on Emma.
Her skin was always pretty clear throughout her teenage years, the odd pimple every now and then, but apart from that she had good skin. It was about 2 years ago when she was 24, that her skin started to change. Her forehead was getting congested with whiteheads and blackheads under the skin with some inflammation and the odd pimple. then she noticed some appearing on her chin and then her jaw as well. As you can see from her before photo her forehead ended up quite congested before she came to us.
She had experimented with harsh skincare products, searched You tube videos for tricks to dry out acne, being a vegan she tried going natural and looked at her diet. She had facials (no extractions) and when all else failed- covered everything up with make-up.
Her treatment plan
On her first visit to us she had our Shine Skin Solutions treatment where we took the time to go through her history- we looked at her current skincare (which wasn’t too bad, just not enough active ingredients) and checked all her makeup, went over her diet, medication and health and lifestyle.
We started off with extractions and added a near infra-red LED light therapy. This consists off cleansing, exfoliating, steam and deep cleanser, then a long extraction session ending in the near infrared LED light to speed up the healing process and the calm down the inflammation.
Emma came back 2 weeks later for an extraction facial followed by LED. The results of her first facial blew us both away. She had probably about an 80% clearance from the one facial.
Now this doesn’t happen for everyone, it can depend on the cause of their acne. For Emma- we couldn’t really pinpoint a reason, from having such amazing clearance in one facial normally points to something has happened to cause a spike in bacteria/inflammation in the skin, then it has just gotten out of control and become more of a bacterial issue.
She was happy with the results- but she was going to USA for a month. We were both a little worried about how the condition of her skin would be on her return.
Her skin did re-lapsed while in America. She brought a few products that contained BHA’s that made her skin purge toxins and breakout. After a frantic email, we took a couple of the products out of her routine and that calmed her skin down a little.
On her return in Feb her third visit, her skin was not as bad as we expected it to be. She had breakouts on her forehead we did an Extraction facial for a good clean out and to get her skin back into control again finished off with an LED.
We have continued with her treatment plan of Extraction facial with LED every 2 weeks for 4 sessions, then out to 3 weeks now on to every 4 weeks.
It’s a credit to Emma that she saw it through (stayed committed to her treatments) many people in her situation would have stopped after the first facial after seeing massive improvements with their skin. but we need to keep facials going to ensure we stop the issue from coming back.
Emma now comes for monthly facials and as she has used up her old skincare has introduced new products perfectly suited to be active enough without causing dryness or sensitivity.
Read her review below.
Hurry up and make an appointment if you’re struggling with acne or congested skin! When I first called Sheridan I was literally in tears of frustration with my skin especially my forehead. After years of having crystal clear skin all of a sudden no amount of expensive products or tricks would clear my bumpy spotty forehead. Sheridan and her team understood exactly what I was going through, gave me great advice and went through all of my products and told me which ones I could keep and which wouldn’t work for me without ever selling me anything unnecessary. Her expert extraction facials have turned everything around! It’s a process and I’m still having treatments but I can overstate the improvement not just in my skins appearance but my confidence and happiness knowing when my skin plays up I have an expert I can trust to help me. Stop wasting your time and money elsewhere and get the pros to help you out. You’ll wish you had done it sooner, I know I Do! Thank you Shine!
If you have been struggling book an appointment and come in and see us.
At Melbourne skin clinic Shine skin and body Richmond’s we specialise in treating acne. In our facials we do a treatment called high frequency, for those that haven’t heard of it, it is AMAZING for acne. It aids healing quicker after extractions, it reduces the chances of future breakouts and for those stubborn big sebaceous cysts that you can’t get out-this will get rid of it.
Having previously suffered from acne for years, I credit this machine with keeping my breakouts in check and for not having scaring now.
Here is a little about how it works.
High-frequency treatment uses low-current, high frequency alternating currents, delivered via a glass electrode. It is not used widely now as it is a bit old school, but we believe it is one of the best ways to help us keep clients skin clear. It is used to help treat and prevent stubborn acne and rejuvenate the condition of the skin. Considered a timeless and essential skin rejuvenating treatment in the skin care industry, high frequency is known to
-Stimulate cell renewal
-Kills the bacteria that causes breakouts
-Calms down acne faster
-Prevents bacteria from spreading
-Used to aid healing
We use a glass mushroom electrode filled with neon or argon gas. As the electrical current is passed down the electrode an oxygen pocket is created between the electrode and the skin causing the oxygen to become unstable and turn into ozone. This helps dry out spots and has an antibacterial effect.
Lifting the electrode off slightly can also be done, this is where the electrode is used to quickly and painlessly zap any pimples, we tap the spot 4-6 times. This helps heal the skin at a faster rate by drying out the pimple.
The main point of difference to high frequency that no other machine does, is it has the ability to kill those stubbon cystic pimples that nothing will come out of, sometimes high frequency will be able to help it disappear more than any other treatment.
The great thing though is- it doesn’t hurt! At last something to clear skin that is painless. It is done after your extraction facial normally over a serum. At Shine skin and body we also offer a free followup session of high frequency if needed.
You will feel tingling and some warmth. When we lift off sometimes you feel a bit more- but it also feels like you are killing the bacteria and killing the pimple for good.
We will always look at your skin to see whether you need it, not everyone does. There are contra-indications- heart problems, pacemaker, metal implants, pregnancy or trying to become pregnant and epilepsy.
If you haven’t already, book in for a facial and experience what we can do for your skin
Yes, dairy is a main cause acne. Not the only one and not necessarily your cause, but something to look at.
Dairy products spike your insulin levels three to six times more.
Let’s look at how dairy works in our bodies. Milk was never intended for humans. It is made by pregnant cows for their calves so that they grow strong and big. It has an insulin like growth factor (IGF-1) that accelerates our growth (including acne if you are prone to it)
Here’s the basics of how when IGF-1 is increased in your body how it effects your skin.
This is because the same hormones that stimulate muscle growth also stimulate sebum production and skin cell growth.
Something I didn’t know was this little fact;
Milk contains casomorphin, which is a physiologically addictive substance that essentially does to your brain what morphine and opium do (to a lesser degree).
Casomorphin binds to opioid receptors in your brain and makes you happy, and then your brain gets used to the jolt when you drink milk over and over, and you get unhappy if you try to stop drinking it. (Or eating cheese, or yogurt, or pretty much any other kind of dairy.)
Generally easier to digest, but it can still cause acne.Goats and sheep, like cows, pump hormones into their milk to help their babies grow. It does still contain IGF-1 though
This is probably the worse of the lot. Especially if you have hormonal breakouts(chin/jaw/chest/back) It has an estrogen-mimicking effect on the body. Any food that could potentially disturb your hormones in this way is something you’ll want to avoid. Soy also contains large amounts of omega-6 fats, which cause inflammation and redness/swelling of acne.
The easiest way to see if dairy is a trigger is for you is to eliminate. If you can take it out completely for 30 days you should see an improvement in your skin, or if a complete elimination is too much, do a partial (the results won’t be so dramatic, but you should see a difference)
When dairy is re-introduced take note of your skin in the days following.
Remember dairy is lurking in unsuspecting foods as well as most we know (soup, pasta, chocolate, some breads, cereals, peanut butter)
The ingredient label on prepackaged foods may list whey, lactalbumin, lactoglobulin or casein, which are all milk proteins. Products that contains these ingredients should be avoided or cut back.
A wonderful follow up review from katina.
Read her other review on our blog or In the Press on our homepage.
We have been very lucky lately with some wonderful reviews. Katina came and saw us recently and is writing a wonderful article about her journey on helping clear up her skin. See the link below for her 1st article and before and after pictures from her 1st facial.
We were lucky enough to receive a visit from blogger Nikkia Joy. She wrote this fantastic article about her facial with us.
Click on this link
Alesia here, I wanted to start contributing to the blog and seeing as I have a facial special going at the moment, I thought I would start with the wonderful benefits of facials. Our special which is on until 20th March 2015 is Book a 1hr massage and receive a 30min facial for free.
Here is my 1st blog for you all.
You may merely enjoy the pampering and relaxation you feel when receiving a facial treatment, but most people don’t understand the benefits that a good professional facial offer.
Most people will wait until they encounter a skin concern (breakouts, dryness, pigmentation) or have a special event before coming in for a facial. This is o.k. but problems can be avoided by regular facials.
Here are some reason why you should have a regular routine.
Your skin is always on display and often has the power to dictate how good we feel about ourselves. Investing in your skin has more value than buying a new dress or going out to a fancy restaurant.
Hope to see you soon for a great massage and facial 🙂
For the latest specials https://shineskinandbody.com.au/specials/