Is your makeup causing acne?

 

 

Where is this typically seen on the skin?

Either an all over and even spread of congestion or localised on certain parts of the face. Most common areas seen are on or under the cheekbones. Congestion can also develop along the hairline, on the orbital bone, chin, lip line or just in front of the ears.

 

What ingredients are you looking for?

Talc is the main ingredient we have been focussing on trying to get our clients to avoid, but there are many others to look out for. It may not even be the worst one out there as many articles continually deem it to be safe, as it’s not very high on the comedogenicity scale.

 

Fatty Acid Esters are what we really should be looking out for and trying to memorise their tricky names. Esters are the combination of Alcohols with Fatty Acids.

Fatty Acids are best for a drier skin that has little oil as they are quite nourishing, but they are food for p.acnes in an oilier skin and can be comedogenic. These are more so related to moisturisers etc. Fatty Acids are not to be confused with EFAs, these are much different.

Fatty Acid Esters are much more comedogenic on the skin because of the reaction the Alcohol has on the Acid when combined. The worst one is Isopropyl Myristate. Other examples are Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Myristyl Myristate and Ethylhexyl Palmitate.

 

One of the Esters I want to point out is Ethylhexyl Palmitate. It is the second ingredient in all NARS bronzers, Talc being number one. Nearly all who stop using their NARS powders find their skin clears up. We believe it’s because we are getting rid of Talc, but maybe this was the ingredient that was to blame all along. And now that it’s gone, so is the congestion.

Bismuth Oxychloride is said to be better for skin than Talc and is often found in BareMinerals powders. It’s heavier than Talc and has a crystalline structure, meaning these crystals can get stuck inside the pores, not only contributing to congestion but also has the potential to irritate sensitive skins or rosacea. This is more of an issue when it is the main ingredient in powder make up.

Red Dyes (D&C Red) are red tints and pigments used in blush, eyeshadow and lipstick and are derived from coal tar which is extremely comedogenic. This explains those deep blackheads some get directly on the lip line and why the cheekbones are usually the worst!

 

Why do they put those ingredients in?

Talc has many uses. It absorbs moisture and can make makeup opaque. It is also used as a dilutant. If you were to just have pigment in cosmetics it would be too concentrated and intense, so Talc brings this down a notch.

Fatty Acids are used as thickeners and emollients and give a creamy consistency, some can be used as surfactants.

Fatty Acid Esters are used in cosmetics because they don’t feel as oily as Fatty Acids and other emollients. They also give skin a smooth texture. The interesting thing here is that even though the Esters don’t feel as rich or oily, they are actually much worse for congestion!

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a derivative of palm oil and has a silicone-like texture, so for this reason is it often used as a replacement to silicones or mineral oil.

Bismuth Oxychloride is used in cosmetics because it has a shimmery, pearlescent appearance and adheres well to skin.

Red Dyes are used to give pigment to blush, eyeshadow and lipstick for example.

 

Does that mean no-one can use those ingredients?

The effect of comedogenic ingredients are more likely seen in those with more oil flow, or those already with congestion or acne. This is because their skin naturally has a high cell turnover rate, so more dead skin needs to shed off.

Drier skins or those with no family history of acne are a lot less likely to be affected by these ingredients but I wouldn’t say that they are exempt.

Congestion always starts with a blocked pore, but it’s not just makeup that’s to blame. Some people may cleanse or exfoliate incorrectly, or their skin is dehydrated from over stripping or underhydrating, leading to excess dead skin build up. And it’s these factors that need to be taken into consideration. Having an improper skincare routine can allow makeup that was never the problem, to become a problem in those who we may not have expected.

 

What kind of breakouts are they normally? (cong/cysts/inflammation/redness etc)

Mostly blackheads and whiteheads concentrated to one or more areas, that can eventually develop into pustules or papules if not treated due to bacteria build up. Milia can sometimes appear as a once off or in a patch.

 

If more than one type of breakout- why are there different types- does it mean different things?

Congestion is always going to be the most common lesion to see on the skin because these ingredients are essentially causing a blockage inside the pore. It’s once those pores become inflamed or bacteria builds up that it will develop into a pustule or papule. This can be due to things like dirty makeup brushes, improper extracting at home/work etc, not removing make up well or at all, hormonal or dietary changes for example. Sometimes only one or two milia may show up on the skin, which is ok as once we they are removed generally they won’t come back. But when someone has a genetic history of milia, they are more prone and make up can exacerbate it. Meaning they could have cheeks full of them as well as the whiteheads and blackheads!

 

Why does it affect the skin?

All skins have pores all over that produce oil as a protective mechanism and everyone has different amounts of oil flow depending on their DNA. The skin has a cell turnover process where new cells are born in the lower layers and rise up to the surface to shed off. These old dead skin cells can shed off daily. If the opening of the pore becomes blocked, then there is no way this old dead skin can shed off. This is how congestion begins. Comedogenic ingredients are what block the pore and prevent them eliminating debris.

 

If foundation is the cause how will it show up in the skin? Where?

Because foundation is applied all over the face, it has the potential to cause congestion all over. Those with a lot more oil flow are more likely to experience this, and their blackheads may appear to be quite large. Whereas, if it is someone with a relatively normal amount of oil flow, they may still notice some bigger blackheads, but just in the centre panel of the face.

 

How can we help as beauty therapists?

Extraction facials will clear the skin up. The severity of the condition will determine how many treatments are needed and the frequency. If the client is noncompliant and still using the products causing it in the first place, then it will come back. So clear explanation as to why and homecare that may include AHAs, BHAs, antibacterial ingredients, mineral make up or efficient make up removing cleansers etc.

 

How is it fixed?

Throw out the comedogenic makeup!!!! Finding out exactly what it is that is to blame and removing it from the picture.

Stop sleeping in it!!!!! Having emergency makeup wipes around is much better than the damage this does.

Properly remove make up at night time! No removing the leftovers around the eyes in the morning! (so many do this)

Clean makeup brushes regularly to ensure no bacterial build up. If they have been used for a long time without cleaning, best to chuck them and get new ones.

Change to mineral makeup! In saying that more people are switching over to mineral, but mineral doesn’t necessarily mean non-comedogenic. So, we really need to keep our eyes on the ingredient listings for all nasties and not just Talc!

 

Everything you need to know about getting rid of acne scars for good

Having acne is one thing. Being left with the memories of them is another. But don’t worry, this acne expert has some advice that will help treat those scars.

You finally succeed in clearing your acne, but sometimes you are left with scarring, which can often be as difficult to manage as the acne itself. So what do you do now? Will they ever go away? How do you treat it?

What are acne scars and how do they form?

Scars from acne can vary in their appearance, depending on the type of scar and the cause of the scar itself. Scars are created when an injury occurs, whether you picked at your skin, or you have large, deep inflamed cystic acne.

When it comes to scarring types, there are two major ones: pitted scars and PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) scars.

Read on….

 

We have a lot of success helping people out and thought I might share one story. 

This is her before and after photos. Her after photo is after just 2 facials

Emma came to us in January. She had become frustrated after trying many different treatments with no luck in clearing up her skin, she happened upon one of the blogs written about us and decided to give us a call. After a short conversation she was willing to trust us to look after her skin and help clear her acne.

A little background on Emma.

Her skin was always pretty clear throughout her teenage years, the odd pimple every now and then, but apart from that she had good skin. It was about 2 years ago when she was 24, that her skin started to change. Her forehead was getting congested with whiteheads and blackheads under the skin with some inflammation and the odd pimple. then she noticed some appearing on her chin and then her jaw as well. As you can see from her before photo her forehead ended up quite congested before she came to us.

She had experimented with harsh skincare products, searched You tube videos for tricks to dry out acne, being a vegan she tried going natural and looked at her diet. She had facials (no extractions) and when all else failed- covered everything up with make-up.

Her treatment plan

On her first visit to us she had our Shine Skin Solutions treatment where we took the time to go through her history- we looked at her current skincare (which wasn’t too bad, just not enough active ingredients) and checked all her makeup, went over her diet, medication and health and lifestyle.

We started off with extractions and added a near infra-red LED light therapy. This consists off cleansing, exfoliating, steam and deep cleanser, then a long extraction session ending in the near infrared LED light to speed up the healing process and the calm down the inflammation.  

Emma came back 2 weeks later for an extraction facial followed by LED. The results of her first facial blew us both away. She had probably about an 80% clearance from the one facial.

Now this doesn’t happen for everyone, it can depend on the cause of their acne. For Emma- we couldn’t really pinpoint a reason, from having such amazing clearance in one facial normally points to something has happened to cause a spike in bacteria/inflammation in the skin, then it has just gotten out of control and become more of a bacterial issue.

She was happy with the results- but she was going to USA for a month. We were both a little worried about how the condition of her skin would be on her return.

 Her skin did re-lapsed while in America. She brought a few products that contained BHA’s that made her skin purge toxins and breakout. After a frantic email, we took a couple of the products out of her routine and that calmed her skin down a little.

On her return in Feb her third visit, her skin was not as bad as we expected it to be. She had breakouts on her forehead we did an Extraction facial for a good clean out and to get her skin back into control again finished off with an LED.

 

We have continued with her treatment plan of Extraction facial with LED every 2 weeks for 4 sessions, then out to 3 weeks now on to every 4 weeks.

It’s a credit to Emma that she saw it through (stayed committed to her treatments) many people in her situation would have stopped after the first facial after seeing massive improvements with their skin. but we need to keep facials going to ensure we stop the issue from coming back.

Emma now comes for monthly facials and as she has used up her old skincare has introduced new products perfectly suited to be active enough without causing dryness or sensitivity.

Read her review below.

 

 

Emma Lennon

6 reviews

Hurry up and make an appointment if you’re struggling with acne or congested skin! When I first called Sheridan I was literally in tears of frustration with my skin especially my forehead. After years of having crystal clear skin all of a sudden no amount of expensive products or tricks would clear my bumpy spotty forehead. Sheridan and her team understood exactly what I was going through, gave me great advice and went through all of my products and told me which ones I could keep and which wouldn’t work for me without ever selling me anything unnecessary. Her expert extraction facials have turned everything around! It’s a process and I’m still having treatments but I can overstate the improvement not just in my skins appearance but my confidence and happiness knowing when my skin plays up I have an expert I can trust to help me. Stop wasting your time and money elsewhere and get the pros to help you out. You’ll wish you had done it sooner, I know I Do! Thank you Shine!

♡♡♡

 

If you have been struggling book an appointment and come in and see us.

 

I read an article in today’s paper on antibiotic resistance, and it has prompted me to write this blog on how antibiotic resistance is linked to acne.
To start off, some background on P.acne, the bacteria that causes acne. P.acne is not necessarily a bad bacteria. There are at least 70 strains of P.acne and some actually protect the skin from acne while others can cause it.
P.acne prospers and grows in lower-oxygen environments that are found deep within your skin’s pores rather than on the surface of your skin. It uses sebum as a primary fuel source and is stimulated by conditions that create high sebum production and/or blocked pores, such as diet, hormones, excessive skin build-up, stress, medication etc. Once the overgrowth starts it begins a downward spiral, making your efforts to clear your skin far more challenging.
Antibiotic resistance has been a major health issue for over 10 years. It has come about via a combination of over-prescription of antibiotics for the common cold and people not finishing a prescription, to antibiotics also being added to the meat we eat. If the global spread of resistance is not slowed, this could have serious health implications – many common infections may become difficult to treat and routine surgical procedures may become life-threatening.
Reports estimate that the global prevalence of P.acnes’ resistant strains has steadily increased over a 30 year period rising from 20% in 1978 to 62% in 1996.[i]
Acne affects more than 80% of people worldwide during their lifetime. From slight congestion to full blown acne vulgaris.[ii] A lot of people’s first stop is a doctor for either treatment or a referral to a dermatologist. A doctor’s plan of treatment may only consists of drugs. These days people are also seeking an alternative to avoid the issues caused by antibiotic resistance,
If antibiotics are prescribed often it is treated for three to six months with broad-spectrum antibiotic that will inhibit bacterial growth rather than eradicate bacteria. Which means the acne may come back.
Worldwide more than 50% of the P acnes strains are resistant to topical antibiotics. Dermatologists, however, do not prescribe antibiotics in patients with acne to eradicate the bacteria. Although it has yet to be proven effective, many dermatologists use antibiotics for their putative anti-inflammatory effects.[iii]
Other options are benzoyl peroxide which works by breaking down into benzoic acid and oxygen upon contact with the skin. This creates toxic free radicals of oxygen, which kill the P. acnes bacteria. The process does work and that’s why it helps a some acne patients, but the free radicals can also cause damage. It reduces Vitamin C production up to 70% and Vitamin E up to 95%.(4) It also forms a by-product called squalene peroxide that both increases sebum production and cause comedones- sometimes creating worse problems down the road. It relies far too much on brute force. Killing bacteria alone is not always the solution. We need to care for the redness, inflammation and health of your skin as well.
So what can you do?
Our recommendation is to try a more natural approach first.
At Shine, we clear the congestion with extraction facials and reduce any inflammation in the skin. If the skin is healthy we can start to rebalance the bacteria levels. If the skin isn’t busy trying to rebalance and reduce inflammation it will start to heal your acne.  Vitamin A can be a great homecare addition too.
The main thing though is to get to the cause. If you have an untreated hormone imbalance or undiagnosed food intolerance, then your skin will only clear so far with extraction facials. A good beauty therapist will ask hundreds of questions to try to get to the bottom of it.
The blue LED light has also been proven ability to kill P.acne issues. You can read the papers here. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17111415
At Shine, if we can’t clear your skin we will recommend other natural alternatives such as a naturopath or acupuncture. Please don’t read this as us being against antibiotics, We just think there are other options that can be explored that could be better for your overall health.
Please call us to book an appointment and let us help you improve your skin a more natural way.
[i] Antibiotic resistance and acne treatment: Tackling the challenge, Galderma Media Center, November 2014, file:///C:/Users/sjrol/Downloads/Antibiotic_Resistance_And_Acne_Treatment_November_2014%20(3).pdf  
[ii] Antibiotic Resistance in Acne: Strategies for Prevention and Treatment, Suzanne Bujara, 2 October 2017, Dermatology Advisor, https://www.dermatologyadvisor.com/acne/how-to-prevent-antibiotic-resistance-acne-treatment/article/697357/
[iii] Ibid.

(4) Clinical implications of lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris: old wine in ne w bottles https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3012032/

Pregnancy is a special time of your life, but for some it can also bring an onset of hormonal acne. When you become pregnant your skin will either be beautiful and clear and glowing or be terrible.  Normally how your skin is while pregnant, is how it will stay until you finish breastfeeding as the hormones don’t settle down until then.
For the unlucky ones it can be a confusing mindfield of: What can I do? What should I not do? Are there any treatments I can have?
So to help you all out, here are our tips to keep your baby safe and your skin clear.  
Also as a sidenote- these rules below also apply if you are trying to become pregnant, we treat you as if you are pregnant, as you may be pregnant.

DO’S

Facials are great to have and you can have them at any time throughout your pregnancy.  There are just some modifcations we make if you are pregnant- nothing that changes the great results you can get.
Extractions are the best way to go, all natural and result driven.
AHA peels are still fine to have. Most of our clients prefer to wait until the 3mth mark, but they are safe to have at any time.  AHA’s are great for loosening the build up of dead skin on the surface that are clogging the pores, as it is only a surface treatment the product cannot penetrate into the blood system so therefore can’t effect your baby.
Microdermabrasion is also great to have- this is more for dry or rough textured skin, not inflamed acne. The main precaution with this is your skin can be a little more sensitive when pregnant so we take care to go gentle in those areas if needed.
LED light therapy is also on the go ahead list- helps give you the extra glow that you want. Or we can use the blue light if your skin is breaking out badly.
DON’TS
Any products containing BHA (salicylic acid) or Vitamin A (retinol) Both these ingredients are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin and have a slight the ability to penetrate into the blood system. Therefore we say to stay away. These ingredients are found in a lot of acne homecare products.
Certain types of peels. The ingredients above-mainly BHA’s- can be found in salon as well, mainly in peels
High frequency- A favourite addition of our clients who have acne facials, which when a client is pregnant (or trying) is the 1st thing to go and always faced with dread. The alternative though is to add a blue LED light into your treatment. It is a super charged version of high frequency, but safe.

At Melbourne skin clinic Shine skin and body Richmond’s we specialise in treating acne. In our facials we do a treatment called high frequency, for those that haven’t heard of it, it is AMAZING for acne. It aids healing quicker after extractions, it reduces the chances of future breakouts and for those stubborn big sebaceous cysts that you can’t get out-this will get rid of it.

Having previously suffered from acne for years, I credit this machine with keeping my breakouts in check and for not having scaring now.

Here is a little about how it works.

High-frequency treatment uses low-current, high frequency alternating currents, delivered via a glass electrode. It is not used widely now as it is a bit old school, but we believe it is one of the best ways to help us keep clients skin clear. It is used to help treat and prevent stubborn acne and rejuvenate the condition of the skin. Considered a timeless and essential skin rejuvenating treatment in the skin care industry, high frequency is known to

-Stimulate cell renewal

-Kills the bacteria that causes breakouts

-Calms down acne faster

-Antibacterial

-Prevents bacteria from spreading

-Used to aid healing

We use a glass mushroom electrode filled with neon or argon gas. As the electrical current is passed down the electrode an oxygen pocket is created between the electrode and the skin causing the oxygen to become unstable and turn into ozone. This helps dry out spots and has an antibacterial effect.

Lifting the electrode off slightly can also be done, this is where the electrode is used to quickly and painlessly zap any pimples, we tap the spot 4-6 times. This helps heal the skin at a faster rate by drying out the pimple.

The main point of difference to high frequency that no other machine does, is it has the ability to kill those stubbon cystic pimples that nothing will come out of, sometimes high frequency will be able to help it disappear more than any other treatment.

The great thing though is- it doesn’t hurt! At last something to clear skin that is painless. It is done after your extraction facial normally over a serum. At Shine skin and body we also offer a free followup session of high frequency if needed.

You will feel tingling and some warmth. When we lift off sometimes you feel a bit more- but it also feels like you are killing the bacteria and killing the pimple for good.

We will always look at your skin to see whether you need it, not everyone does. There are contra-indications- heart problems, pacemaker, metal implants, pregnancy or trying to become pregnant and epilepsy.

If you haven’t already, book in for a facial and experience what we can do for your skin

 

Yes, dairy is a main cause acne. Not the only one and not necessarily your cause, but something to look at.

Dairy products spike your insulin levels three to six times more.

Let’s look at how dairy works in our bodies. Milk was never intended for humans. It is made by pregnant cows for their calves so that they grow strong and big. It has an insulin like growth factor (IGF-1) that accelerates our growth (including acne if you are prone to it)

Here’s the basics of how when IGF-1 is increased in your body how it effects your skin.

  • Your skin produce excess oil
  • IGF-1 tells your skin cells to multiply too fast (so your pores get clogged more often with dead skin cells)
  • IGF-1 glues dead skin cells together before they can shed normally-meaning more clogged pores
  • Causes inflammation in humans(the redness and swelling that comes with your acne)

This is because the same hormones that stimulate muscle growth also stimulate sebum production and skin cell growth.

Something I didn’t know was this little fact;

Milk contains casomorphin, which is a physiologically addictive substance that essentially does to your brain what morphine and opium do (to a lesser degree).

Casomorphin binds to opioid receptors in your brain and makes you happy, and then your brain gets used to the jolt when you drink milk over and over, and you get unhappy if you try to stop drinking it. (Or eating cheese, or yogurt, or pretty much any other kind of dairy.)

 

Need some alternatives??

Not these….

Goat and sheep milk

Generally easier to digest, but it can still cause acne.Goats and sheep, like cows, pump hormones into their milk to help their babies grow. It does still contain IGF-1 though

 

Soy milk

This is probably the worse of the lot. Especially if you have hormonal breakouts(chin/jaw/chest/back) It has an estrogen-mimicking effect on the body. Any food that could potentially disturb your hormones in this way is something you’ll want to avoid. Soy also contains large amounts of omega-6 fats, which cause inflammation and redness/swelling of acne.

But these are good……

  • Unsweetened, organic almond milk
  • Unsweetened, organic coconut milk
  • Organic full-fat coconut milk

 

The easiest way to see if dairy is a trigger is for you is to eliminate. If you can take it out completely for 30 days you should see an improvement in your skin, or if a complete elimination is too much, do a partial (the results won’t be so dramatic, but you should see a difference)

When dairy is re-introduced take note of your skin in the days following.

Remember dairy is lurking in unsuspecting foods as well as most we know (soup, pasta, chocolate, some breads, cereals, peanut butter)

The ingredient label on prepackaged foods may list whey, lactalbumin, lactoglobulin or casein, which are all milk proteins. Products that contains these ingredients should be avoided or cut back.

Ever wondered what happens during one of our extraction facials? Want to find out if this is the right treatment for you? Here is the lowdown on how it all works…

At Shine we start every facial with a thorough skin consultation. Your therapist will ask some questions and inspect your skin in order to understand your main concerns and the current condition of your skin. Clearing your skin is only part of the solution, we need to investigate how you got the acne or blackheads in the first place so we can consider ways to prevent the issue from coming back. It is also a good idea to bring along your current skincare and make-up so we can look at whether products are the issue.

Once you are in one of our beautiful treatment rooms, snuggled under a doona in one of our luxurious beds with an electric blanket keeping you warm (and a little Norah Jones playing), we will commence with a double cleanse to ensure your skin is completely clean. Then we will examine your skin under a magnifying lamp to ensure we can see everything that is happening with your complexion. This might seem a little scary, but it is necessary to ensure we don’t miss anything and we can make sure we have cleansed all the dirt and toxins away.

Next step is exfoliation which is tailored to your skin type – this might be an enzyme/scrub or a gentle buff. Then it’s time for a relaxing steam while we use a deep pore cleanser to ensure we soften any blackheads – as this will help the extractions to come out more easily.

I won’t lie, the extraction process can be a little uncomfortable. But for people who have acne and blackheads, it is a necessary process and your skin will reap the rewards. We will work with you as to how much you can cope with – for super-sensitive skin we are extra-gentle and avoid areas where the skin is not strong enough.

At Shine, when it comes to extractions we only use tissues and our fingers. We are often asked whether we use those “pimple-popping” metal tools – we don’t! We believe they are too harsh on your skin and you can’t feel how much pressure you are applying, which can cause bruising, scarring or more damage to the skin. Touch is the best gauge.

Depending on time we may also include a massage and/or a treatment mask as part of the session. If you have requested the inclusion of red or infra-red LED light therapy, this will be done once we have completed the extractions to help calm inflammation and speed up the healing process.

Your extraction facial is finished off with some high frequency therapy. This is a little wonder tool that uses gentle electricity to convert to ozone to kill bacteria, heal your skin faster and reduce your chances of another break-out. (This is an old beauty therapist trick that only experienced therapists and extraction specialists know about!).

The facial ends with a selection of serums, moisturiser and sunscreen massaged into your skin to ensure your skin’s hydration and condition is at its best.

If you would like more information about Shine’s extraction facials and other beauty and body treatments, call us today on 98191034 or book online @ shineskinandbody.com.au

We hear the same story a lot….

I went somewhere else and they only did a few extractions.

The said they did extractions, but when i got there they said they didn’t.

The girl didn’t know what she was doing.

People are so desperate and excited when they find us they just want us to keep going and going.

There are only so many extractions we can do in a facial, but with a lot people we wish we had longer. If it be time to do more extractions, or time to have a massage after all the bad (good??) stuff. So we have been working hard in coming up with some great packages for you all.

As we are famous for our extractions we thought we would take all the hard work out and make up some great packages to give you the most results possible.

The ultimate extraction package

This package is for those of you who suffer badly from acne. It includes your back, chest and face for an intensive treatment. It starts with a 30 min back treatment that’s a double cleanse a BHA peel and extractions. We then move onto a 70min extraction facial and add in chest as well. Preparing your skin for extra extractions we cleanse exfoliate, deep cleanse and steam before starting your extractions. In this package you receive an extra 20mins of extractions (on top of what we already do) An LED light therapy is chosen for your skin (to kill bacteria, to heal or to reduce inflammation) We finish off with a high frequency treatment which zaps surface bacteria, speeds up the healing time and reduces your chances of reoccurring breakouts.

2 hours 15 min.

Add an AHA or BHA peel for an extra $10 (dependant on skin type)

 The deluxe extraction package

This package is for those with a serious acne condition. We do a 70min extraction facial, but add your choice of an extra 15mins extraction time or microdermabrasion! And the chest as well.  We cleanse exfoliate, deep cleanse and steam to prepare the skin, then we begin extractions. We choose an LED light therapy for your skin condition (to kill bacteria, to speed up healing or to help with inflammation) We finish off with a High Frequency treatment which zaps surface bacteria, helps heal the skin quicker and reduce chances of re-occurring breakouts.

1 hours 45 min.

Add a AHA or BHA peel for an extra $10 (dependant on skin type)

The express extraction package

70min extraction facial including chest. It starts off with a cleanse, exfoliation, deep cleanse and steam then we begin extractions on face and chest treatment. LED light therapy which kills bacteria that cause acne. We finish off with a high frequency treatment which zaps surface bacteria, heals your skin faster and reduces your chances of breaking out.

1 hours 30 min.

Add a AHA or BHA peel for an extra $10 (dependant on skin type)

 

 

 

 

One of the most common skin conditions we see at Shine is acne. But one of the biggest issues we see in new clients is that they have tried to combat their acne issues by stripping their skin of good oils with the wrong skincare, making it even oilier but also with dry, scaly patches – so in general their skin presents as red, inflamed and aggravated. In about 90% of cases oily skin is not to blame for the breakouts – it is usually hormones, stress, diet or digestion.

I know, I know…. You are saying, “But MY skin is oily!”

Let me explain…

Oil is not your enemy. Too much oil is. But we all need good oils in our skin to keep it hydrated, nourished, balanced, working correctly and to have a healthy glowing complexion. Oil for your skin is like oil with food. There is good oil and bad oil. You need good oils (like the oils found in fish, nuts and avocado) to ensure everything in your body is lubricated and working well to absorb nutrients and maintain good health. What you don’t need is an excess of bad oils (think trans fats in fast food and greasy takeaway). This can spell bad news for your heart, your other essential organs, and even your skin, leaving you feeling sluggish and unhealthy.

When you use skincare products targeted for oily complexions and acne-prone skin you are probably stripping out all the essential oils as well as the bad ones because many skincare brands which are developed for super-oily skin are actually created to strip out as much oil as possible, no matter if it is good or bad. So you end up with dehydrated, stressed out skin that is actually screaming out for some good oil. And plenty of hydration. The result? Your body responds to this distress signal and goes into overdrive producing extra oils so you end up with a major grease problem and major inflammation and dehydration because your skin is in shock. What does that look like? Break-outs and red, dry patches of skin – so both oily and dry at the same time!

Is this starting to sound like your skin now? A little of everything?

The first step is to balance out your skin using the right combination skincare products – or for some people, specific hydrating products – to calm down your stressed out complexion and slow down the excess oil production.

At Shine, when you book in for a skin consultation we will do a thorough skin analysis before discussing with you the best treatment for your skin type. We encourage you to also bring in any skincare you are currently using so we can understand what you are using and why, and work with you discover what is the best way forward for your skin. We try and work as much as we can with what you already have – because, after all, you have spent good money on it! – but at the same time our job is to make sure you are doing the best for your skin with the right products so we may recommend some changes.

I hope that resolves a few of the myths out there about oily skin and I welcome you to give me a call to discuss your oily skin issues – or pop into Shine for a chat or to book a facial so we can start getting your skin back on track to optimum health.

nikkia joy

We were lucky enough to receive a visit from blogger Nikkia Joy. She wrote this fantastic article about her facial with us.

Click on this link

http://www.nikkiajoy.com/2015/08/extractionfacials.html

Rejuvenate- Near Infra-Red light

Your skin has the ability to absorb infrared light and use it as a source of energy to stimulate cellular regeneration. Near Infra Red works by activating the body’s own natural rejuvenation processes to counteract the signs of aging by activating local cellular metabolism, improving moisture retention, promoting circulation and stimulating the skin’s fibroblasts which leads to a natural increase in collagen and elastin production which can improve skin tone and texture, help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, reduce redness and inflammation and promotes brighter, smoother, more youthful-looking skin.

This treatment targets the building blocks of the skin, the result continues to improve over the following weeks and months.

Biologists have found that cells exposed to near infrared from LEDs, which is energy just outside the visible range grow 150-200 percent faster than cells not stimulated by such light. The light rays increase energy inside cells that speed up the healing process.

 

 

The use of LED therapy in the treatment of aged skin.

BACKGROUND:

LED therapy is an increasingly popular  treatment of sun damage. Combination use of light wavelengths reported to stimulate collagen and accelerate fibroblast-myofibroblast transformation may display a rejuvenative effect.

OBJECTIVE:

To clinically assess reduction in sun damage signs following a 5-week course of LED therapy and to assess subject’s perception of the treatment.

METHODS:

Thirteen subjects with wrinkles or fine lines received nine 20-min duration light treatments. The treatments combined wavelengths of 633 and 830 nm. Sun-damage reduction was assessed at 6, 9, and 12 weeks by clinical photography and patient satisfaction scores.

RESULTS:

At 12-week follow-up, 91% of subjects reported improved skin tone, and 82% reported enhanced smoothness of skin in the treatment area. 

Banish Bacteria. Eliminate infection.

Acne is one of the commonest skin conditions. Under normal circumstances, P. acnes lives happily in the pores of the skin, along with hair follicles and oil glands that produce oil to keep the skin from drying out. Acne erupts when the oil glands produce too much oil, clogging the pore. Then bacteria build up, and the immune system decides to react against them, launching an attack that leads to inflammation and production of a pimple.

Acne often improves after exposure to sunlight or artificially produced solar radiation. Blue light gets to the core of what causes acne eruptions-P. acnes. This is the bacteria responsible for causing acne inflammation. P.acnes pumps out tiny molecules called porphyrins. When those porphyrin are exposed to certain wavelengths of light, they produce free radicals that kill the bacteria. Without P. acnes around to cause inflammation, acne clears up. (American Academy of dermatology 2002)

 

Phototherapy with blue (415 nm) and red (660 nm) light in the treatment of acne.

P.PAPAGEORGIOU, A.KATSAMBAS* AND A.CHU

Unit of Dermatology, Imperial College of Science, Technology and Medicine, Hammersmith Hospital, U.K. DuCane Road, London W12 0NN,

Accepted for publication 7 December 1999

In this study we have evaluated the use of blue light (peak at 415 nm) and a mixed blue and red light (peaks at 415 and 660 nm) in the treatment of acne vulgaris. One hundred and seven patients with mild to moderate acne were randomized into four treatment groups: blue light, mixed blue and red light, cool white light and 5% benzoyl peroxide cream. Assessments were performed every 4 weeks. After 12 weeks of active treatment a mean improvement of 76%  in inflammatory lesions was achieved by the combined blue±red light phototherapy; this was significantly superior to that achieved by blue light (at weeks 4 and 8), benzoyl peroxide (at weeks 8 and 12) or white light (at each assessment).

The final mean improvement in blackheads by using blue±red light was 58%,We have found that phototherapy again better than that achieved by the other active treatments used. With mixed blue±red light, by combining antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action, is an effective means of treating acne of mild to moderate severity, with no significant short-term adverse effects.

 

I have had a lot of phone calls lately asking for a facial with extractions. It seems to be a really missing element out there with so many therapists not doing them.

Extractions are the part of the facial where your beauty therapist removes blackheads, whiteheads, milia and pimples. Extractions take place after the skin has been thoroughly cleansed, exfoliated and steamed, which helps soften uthe pore where the blackheads are.

Different types of congestion:

Blackheads- harden oil in the pore. Being exposed to oxygen turns it black.
Whiteheads- the same as blackheads except there is a thin layer of skin on top. As it is not exposed to oxygen it stays white.
Milia- Hardened lumps under the surface. look like little balls can be pearly in appearance. Normally found around eyes.
Pimples- have a head on them and infection/bacteria inside pore.
Sebacteous acne- like a pimple but with no head. The infection is beside the pore therefore can not be extracted, but we can help kill the bacteria still.

I do extractions in most of my facials if you need/want them. I will offer them if I think you need them or can do on request.

I have a facial which concentrates solely on extractions, or I also offer it in my other facials if you just have a few you want to get out but also have other concerns such as hydration or ageing you wish to address as well. (They range from $95-$120 in price)

If you have acne or a lot of congestion (little bumps) under the skin I recommend a AHA/BHA peel. The peel will give you a fantastic exfoliation and really loosen up all the dead skin on the top layers allowing the blackheads to come out more easily.

A lot of people ask if I do microdermabrasion- I don’t. I have used it in the past but believe that peels work much better. Micro will take off the top layer of your skin, but not penetrate into the pores to clean deeper/remove oil/work deeper. Peels being a gel penetrate through the top layers breaking down the bonds that hold the top layers together giving you a more through result. BHA’s (salyclic) are oil loving so if you have oil they will go searching for it and eat it all up hence reducing future breakouts.

AHA peels have no downtime. BHA peels can sometimes involve some peeling. But as I said before extractions can be done very successfully in a normal facial as well. You just get added benefits with a peel.

And last but not least is High Frequency. This is a glass electrode that buzzers. It uses ozone to kill bacteria in the skin, speed up the healing process and is fantastic for reducing post extraction breakouts. A must after an extraction facial.

I will do a few more posts on this as it seems to be a concern to a lot of people so stay tuned.

AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acid) is a natural exfoliating ingredient that is found in fruit and milk. This is the lightest form of a chemical peel. Peels dissolve intercellular glue within the skin, encouraging dead cells to shed and fresh skin to come to the surface, revealing fresher more vibrant skin. They retexture, smooth and brighten the skin. Rough or dry patches can be resurfaced, uneven pigmentation spots can be reduced and the look of fine lines and wrinkles can be improved as cell turnover is increased and damaged skin cells are shed. There is no downtime and no redness afterwards.

In regards to acne we can use AHA or BHA peels. BHA peels have the ability to get deeper into the pore than AHA as they are smaller molecules. BHA are oil loving peels so seek out oil helping to control oil, acne as well as remove dead skin cells to a certain extent better than AHAs, but they can be more irritating and the skin needs to be prepared before starting.

After this there are more intensive peels you can do. They can target pigmentation or acne or total resurfacing. You need to be careful; peels can get very powerful and have a lot of downtime associated with them. The cause quite a lot of trauma to the skin. These are for people with quite a serious problem and are prepared for the downtime associated with them (peeling, redness, sensitivity) Before starting strong peels you skin should be prepped with lighter peels first, sometimes lighter peels are all that is needed. it is best to get a recommendation off someone if you are going to do a strong peel.

At Shine Skin and Body we work with Aspect peels ranging from 20-40% there is no downtime afterwards but they show great results when done in a series.